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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Lapka
Via the left valley crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Koš na hlavy
Up the right part of the east pyrite face (without stepping off) to the ring and left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Čínská chocholatá
From the N corner up the slanted crack to its end, step over to the right, up the double… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Čínská chocholatá
Up the corner crack to its end and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7/7+
Křesadlo
In the right part of the SE wall diagonally right, via a small crack and left up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Křesadlo
From the block below the left part of the NW wall via a crack to the ring and right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
5+
Křesadlo
To the left of the west corner of the tower via a crack to its end at the ring. By aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Křesadlo
From the SE (left of the pass) via a crack, groove (1st ring) and crack to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Křesadlo
From the SW via a crack (added ring) to the pre-summit. Via the Chimney route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Křesadlo
From the pass via a chimney to the lower summit. By stepping over and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pan Vajda
In the northern edge, via grooves and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pan Vajda
From the NW, via a corner and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pan Vajda
Up the plateau chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Křesadlo
In the valley (northern) wall, via a corner crack to a small pillar, up the wall to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Tchoř
To the right of the route 'Voňavá' (Fragrant), easily via a crack to a ledge and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Sója
Up the valley wall diagonally left to the edge. Normal Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tchoř
Up the plateau wall to a ledge and right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Sója
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Sója
Up the valley (NE) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kerstin
From the NW, via a crack and chimney to the pre-summit. Then via the Emigration route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kerstin
To the right of the route "Yugoslav Rhapsody", by aid climbing to the 1st ring and via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Kerstin
From the SE, via a chimney to the pre-summit and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Klubová
Through a crack over an overhang (ring) in the NW wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Kerstin
To the left of the Emigration route via a crack and chimney to the pillar, then via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Klubová
Up the SE wall and via a groove to the ring. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8+/9-
Konopáček
Along the left valley edge over 4 rings and hourglasses to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Herka
Through the plateau crack to a ledge, then left behind the northern edge and through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vlk
The start is on the bench below the SE face. Along the left edge and via chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Vlk
In the upper gorge to the right of the east corner via an S-shaped crack to the pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Grylon
From the east via crack to the ledge below the summit and wall (rappel station) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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