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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Česílko
From the S via the crack and chimney to the foresummit/fore-rock, traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Česílko
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Satyr
From the N via the chimney between the pillar and the tower, traverse to the balcony with… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Satyr
From the SW via the corner and left via the crack to the pillar, left via the crack to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Satyr
From the SE via the corner crack and crack to the 1st ring, left to the 2nd ring. Wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Satyr
From the west via the left crack and chimney into the gully between towers. Right via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Satyr
From the gully between towers to the left of the east corner via the chimney to the small… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Ušatý Gríša
Start from the gully between towers (between Bakchantka and the tower) via 4 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Ušatý Gríša
From the tourist path via small pillars/spires and the wall over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Bakchantka
Via the 'Second Wind' route on Bacchus to the block. Left via the wall (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Ušatý Gríša
In the right part of the NW face via the gully to the pre-summit and right via the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Ušatý Gríša
In the left part of the NW face via the gully and small chimney to the pre-summit. Wall … Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Bakchantka
From the small cave via the chimney and crack directly over the overhang. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8/8+
Bakchantka
To the left of the east edge via the wall to the 1st ring. Wall to the right onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Bakchantka
To the left of the small cave in the NE face, climbing (with artificial aids) to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
5
Bakchantka
Via the descent route on Bacchus to the tops of the blocks in the gully between towers.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Bakchus
From the NW corner to the block, wall to the ledge, then left into the chimney and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Bakchus
In the left part of the NW face, via the chimney and crack over the overhang to the pre… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
8-/8
Bakchus
To the right of the Old Route via the edge (1st ring) and right along the wall (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Bakchus
In the eastern corner via a double crack to a block and to the right via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
8-/8
Bakchus
Via the old route to the ring, over an overhang, traverse left in the ledge to the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Bakchus
From the NE via a narrow gully to the 1st ring (aid climbing from a seat) and via a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5
Žebrák
To the left of the plateau edge (ring) and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Žebrák
From the plateau side to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Slimák
To the left in the plateau wall via a crack to a ledge and along the left edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Slimák
Via the plateau crack to the fore-summit and then up the wall to the main summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Slimák
To the right in the plateau wall to the right and via a chimney to a ledge. Like route C.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mužík
In the left part of the valley (south) wall through a system of chimneys to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mužík
Via a prominent crack from the Southeast into a recess, over an overhang (ring), through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Mužík
From the pine tree to the left (ring). With a friction climb to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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