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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Turgen
Up the wall along the eastern edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Turgen
Via a small crack (sling) to the end to the ring, up the wall directly, later diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Turgen
From below along the uphill edge, higher as route. Over a small pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
10
Turgen
Via a crack over a ring directly and right along the edge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Zámek
From the gorge on the SE side of the tower (access from Turgen) from the left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Turgen
From the uphill side via a dihedral (sokolík) to a small pillar and up the wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Turgen
Up the uphill wall to a small pillar and right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
?
Zámek
Via friction slab over two rings to the blocks. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zámek
Via the East route to the ledge and along it left to the hole. By building up, left wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zámek
From the inner space (from SE) via the chimney or right via a crack (from the uphill side… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zámek
From the hole, traverse left on the wall and a small gully to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zámek
10m left from the start of the "Direct Arch Variant" via a crack to the end to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zámek
In the left part of the valley wall, via a crack in the corner to its end. Traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zámek
The start is below the right part of the valley wall. Via crack and chimney to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Zámek
5m left of the start of "Direct Variation of the Vault" via wall, short crack and gully … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Zámek
From the SE via a narrow long chimney to the fore-summit. Around the large clock traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Zámek
Rock Climbing
5+
Zámek
From the upper fore-rock via wall left to the small falcon's crack and along it to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Zámek
To the right of Beo's route via wall to the ring and to the right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Zámek
Between the routes "Castle Vault" and "Enchanted Beauty" via crack and wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Šmytec
Left of the E edge via wall to the balcony, by the east edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Zámek
Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Šmytec
Via the 'Sokolík' (small falcon) in the west face to the ring, then by wall and edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Ovečka
By crack or stemming to the small pillar (ring). Above it from the left via crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Ovečka
By the valley chimney to the pillar, by overhang and crack to the fore-summit. By the Old… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Šmytec
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ovečka
From the SE via crack to the fore-summit and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Ztracenec
The start is between Ztracenec and Cibulová věž (Onion Tower). Via chimney (1st ring),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Ovečka
To the right of "Old c." via a small wall to the ring. To the right along the edge and a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Ovečka
By the valley chimney and crack to the balcony (ring). By Saxon climbing technique and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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