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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Saská hlava
From the upper side, via the chimney or corner crack to the pillar. Via a crack into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Saská hlava
From the upper fore-rock, via an overflow and small crack to a ring, aided move from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Saská hlava
Through the upper corner chimney to the 1st ring (visible from the W. edge of the cap),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Saská hlava
From SE, via a corner broken crack to an overgrown balcony. From its right edge, via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Saská hlava
In the middle of the valley wall, via a crack and chimney to an overgrown balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Martinská koruna
Via the right valley route to the balcony, left through a system of cracks (ring) and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Martinská koruna
From NW, diagonally left on the wall to the valley pillar. Via the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Martinská koruna
From the left valley (eastern) corner, via the chimney to the balcony. Traverse under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Martinská koruna
From NW by crack to the lower summit and traverse by stemming to the inner pillar. Old… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6
Martinská koruna
At the right valley corner of the tower by corner crack and double crack into the valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Martinská koruna
From the plateau side 5m right of the "Grapes of Wrath" route by overhanging crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Martinský roh
From the start of the "Summer 80" route by narrowing chimney under the overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Martinská koruna
From SE from the inner space by chimney (1st ring) to the inner pillar. Left by crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Martinský roh
From the plateau side traverse right and by a short notch to the balcony (or better by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Martinský roh
From Martin's Crown to the right from the valley side by crack (ring) to the saddle and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10-/10
Čapka
By crack over three rings and then wall to the second ring of the Crazy Project, by them… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Martinský roh
The start is below the left part of the plateau wall. By crack to the balcony and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Čapka
By valley chimney in the corner and crack to the 1st ring. Traverse right beyond the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Čapka
From the southern corner traverse left along the wall beyond the edge to the 1st and 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Čapka
Wall below the rappel line over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Čapka
From the plateau fore-summit by wall right to an overgrown balcony. By chimney into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Čepička
NE crack to the pillar. Wall left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
10
Čepička
Along the SW edge over four rings and from the right along the southern edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Pletichář
From the plateau fore-summit through the passage in the chimney to the valley side of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Čepička
From the overgrown balcony of the Old Route to Čapka by wall along the northern edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Čepička
Wall from the eastern corner left (1st ring) up to the southern edge, along it by a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Čepička
Between Čepička (Small Cap) and Čapka (Cap) by chimney, stemming and step-across to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Čarostřelec
From the chimney between Čarostřelec (Marksman) and Křesadlo (Flint) traverse right on a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Čarostřelec
From the plateau side descending into the NW wall and diagonally left (3 rings) to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Čarostřelec
Old Route to the block. In the ledge left to the 1st ring and wall with falcon-like… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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