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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Čarostřelec
From NW by a broken crack into the cave and a wide crack over the overhang to a higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Čarostřelec
Left of the Stuntman's Route by crack to the 1st ring and wall directly to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Čarostřelec
From the fore-peak on the highland side of the tower, via an overhang and the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Čarostřelec
Via a wide section to the left in the valley wall over an overhang (bolt + ring) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Čarostřelec
From SE from the space between Čarostřelec (Marksman) and Křesadlo (Flint) from the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Čarostřelec
The start is the same as the Old Route. Right crack to the platform in the valley wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Filuta
From the highland side, via stemming and up the wall to the right to the ring. Aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9
Panský kočí
Along the valley edge directly to the ring of the 'Blue Eyes Route' and along that,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
6+/7-
Filuta
On the highland side, via a crack in the massif and to the left up the wall to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Filuta
To the right from the valley side, via a corner crack to its end, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Panský kočí
From the valley side, via a small chimney and up the wall to the right past the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Desková
Via the highland crack (ring) and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Desková
Via the left valley (eastern) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Desková
In the NE wall, via the right crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Desková
Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Desková
Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Desková
In the corner at the northern edge, via a crack to the 1st ring. Through the chimney, to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
2
Desková
In the left part of the highland wall, via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Král komiků
Up the NW wall diagonally left to the edge, via a small crack and gully to the ring. Aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Král komiků
From the highland side, via aid climbing, up the wall and through the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Orel
To the right of the west edge, via a crack to the balcony and then via a crack to the pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Orel
To the right of the South Edge, traverse left to the southern edge and follow the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Orel
From the NW, via a crack, widening into a chimney, to the pre-summit. Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
7+/8-
Orel
From the block on the highland side, via an overhang and the left highland edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Orel
Southeast chimney, crack, and chimney to the pre-summit. Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Orel
To the left of the Southeast Route, up the wall and via a diagonal gully to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Orel
From the highland massif, step over and up the wall into the window. Follow the "Slippery… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Orel
3m to the right of the start of the "Slippery Gully" route, via a crack to the 1st ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Orel
From the highland side, via a crack over the overhang to the balcony. To the right,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Koko
Left of the start of the route 'Nešikovný ruce' (Clumsy Hands) via a corner, traverse on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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