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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Kobylí hlava
Left on the valley wall via a small crack to a vegetated balcony and along the edge (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Škatulka
From S via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čaroděj
Up the valley wall (ring), higher up left through a hole/passage to the edge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čaroděj
From the west edge along a slanted ledge left and via cracks to the ring. By using aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čaroděj
To the right of the Mossy Staircase route via a corner crack and a chimney right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Čaroděj
Up the overhanging edge (bolt and 4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Čaroděj
To the right in the valley (NW) wall via a corner (ring) to the fore-summit. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Čaroděj
Rock Climbing
4
Dobroděj
From the SW via a short green wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Černokněžník
Up the valley chimney to the ring. Up the crack, higher up by stemming/bridging to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Dobroděj
Up the left valley chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Dobroděj
On the west side in the right corner via a crack and a crack left to a ledge into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Černokněžník
From S via a corner – left of Z. pro Sama - (hourglass, ring), right and along the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Černokněžník
Route: Traverse into the valley to the Three Giants on the pillar. Traverse the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Černokněžník
From the valley from the path, wide crack to the ring, from there traverse right and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Černokněžník
From the pillars directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Supí král
Right on the south wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Supí král
From E by opposition to the ring, wall to the 2nd ring. Traverse to the head and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Supí král
Along the edge over 2 rings to the ring of Lucčina sárí (otherwise known as Lucčina sárí… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Supí král
In the south wall briefly via a chimney, traverse to the opposite side and from there to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Tři obři
To the right of the valley end of the Giant Chimney, up a distinctive sulfurous wall left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Tři obři
Between the Giant Pillar and the eastern tower via a chimney to the 1st ring. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Tři obři
Jump from the eastern to the western summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Tři obři
In the valley wall of the Giant Pillar via a corner crack to the ring and via a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Tři obři
The ascent is below the upper wall of the western tower in the inner sandy area. Via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tři obři
Via the route "Traverse into the Valley" to a ledge and via a crack over an overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Tři obři
From NW via a chimney and opposition to the 1st ring, via a crack and opposition to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Tři obři
From the 1st ring of the route "Through the Middle", traverse left in opposition to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Tři obři
Via the west wall through cracks and wall (2 rings) to the 3rd ring and along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tři obři
From the upper side via a chimney and right along the wall to the 1st ring. Left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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