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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Tři obři
The start is on the pre-rock to the right of the wide chimney. By building up and via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tři obři
From the upper side via a chimney and right along the wall to the 1st ring. Left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Malý bivoň
Along the valley (eastern) edge over 2 rings to the 2nd ring of the route "Lucčina sárí".… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Empire State Building
Via the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Černá orlice
Start on the south wall, via a crack to the 1st ring. By building up and along the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Malý bivoň
In the right part of the NE wall via a system of cracks and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Malý bivoň
From SE (in the chimney) via a small pillar to the 1st ring. Crack to the right on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Malý bivoň
Through the left part of the NE wall (1st ring) and a crack to the 2nd ring. Wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Věž Lucie Rakoncajové
From NE with substantial build-up and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
3
Karkulka
From S to the saddle between Karkulka and Lucie Rakoncajová's Tower and along the eastern… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Karkulka
To the right from the upper side via a crack to a ledge and over another ledge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Věž Lucie Rakoncajové
NW crack to the pre-summit and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
6-
Mafián
Up the valley wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Don Carlos
From the upper area Chachoňky to the right onto the ledge and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Don Carlos
From the upper area Chachoňky up the wall to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Chachoňka
From the SE from a block by a jump/step-across to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Chachoňka
Up the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Don Carlos
From the massif by a jump/step-across to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Chachoňka
Through the right part of the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Cínový vojáček
Via a small chimney from the upper side to the pillar. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Chachoňka
From the NW, up the wall over the ramp (ring) left into a curved crack and along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Cínový vojáček
From the block on the valley side by aid climbing/building and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Cínový vojáček
Via a chimney or crack to the pillar on the east side. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Krecbachov
From the valley (NE) side via a small crack/chimney (sokolík) (1st ring) to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Gejši
The ascent is in the gorge between Gejši and Misantrop. Via a crack and to the right a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Krecbachov
Between Krecbachov and Gejši, up the chimney to the ledge and to the left up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Gejši
From the gorge between Gejši and Misantrop, via a small chimney to the balcony. Up an… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Misantrop
From the gorge from Migdalka, up the wall to the pillar (1st ring). By aid climbing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Gejši
Up the SE wall to the 1st ring and diagonally left up the wall to the 2nd ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Misantrop
From the west via a crack and gully over two rings to the pillar, then by the normal… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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