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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Pařez
From SE right to the piton/bolt and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Madona
Through the overhanging upland wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Madona
From the upland side through the crack onto the pillar and left to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sudička
From the S (south) onto the fore-rock, over the overhang and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Sudička
From the ledge left to the left edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Sudička
Between the fore-rock and the tower onto the ledge in the valley wall, along the right… Rock Climbing
6
Duše
Through the SE gully to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Sudička
Through the crack in the upland wall to the balcony, along the S edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Duše
In the upland (SW) wall, jump to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Duše
Through the center of the valley wall directly over the K (piton) into the gully and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Duše
In the left part of the upland wall, to the left of the corner, directly over the K … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Duše
Along the slightly overhanging valley (N) edge into the notch and further under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Žlučník
Through the left crack in the SE face to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +3
4
Žlučník
Through the middle crack in the SE face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
4
Žlučník
Along the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Žlučník
Through the right crack in the NW face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Zub
Through the West face to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Zub
Along the valley (S) edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zub
Along the edge, higher up to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Zub
From the eastern fore-rock, traverse and position towards the right edge and along it to… Rock Climbing
3
Čekatel
Through the crack from the northwest to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Archa
In the right part of the uphill chimney upwards, traverse/overfall and right behind the… Rock Climbing
5
Archa
Along the left valley edge over 3K below the overhang. Left through the chimney of „Noah… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Archa
In the uphill chimney to the boulder. From there by layback/stem, higher up by a small… Rock Climbing
5
Nápojka
From the left over BH to the western edge and along it over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Koráb
Right of the "Straddle Chimney", traverse from the massif to the pine tree and to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Koráb
Left of the NW edge by bridging and via a small wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Koráb
From the right onto the NW edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Koráb
In the middle of the valley wall into the crack (K) and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Koráb
Left of the "Straddle Chimney", traverse from the massif to the small birch tree via a… Rock Climbing

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