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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Strážník (Tlustý hejtman)
Access via the route "Path to Paradise" and from the ledge directly over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Lstivá stařena
In the right part of the plateau wall (N) over the overhang to K and further n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Sedmilhářka
From the plateau side to the right into the W wall and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
8
Dobračka
In the right part of the valley wall over 2 K and slightly to the right over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Dobračka
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sedmilhářka
Along the left part of the plateau wall n. v.
2
Dobračka
Between the massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Dobračka
Along the narrow western edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Sedmilhářka
Along the plateau N wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Konvalinková
Up the center of the wide plateau chimney, traverse left to the ledge (hours) and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Konvalinková
Through the eastern corner to K, by a crack into its widening, up the wall to the right… Rock Climbing
1
Osladičová
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Osladičová
From the East, through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Konvalinková
From the massif from the W or N side n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Osladičová
From the West, along the left edge of the chimney to a bench and diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing
5
Zimořský sloup
Along the East edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Zimořský sloup
Along the East edge to a ledge (knot), traverse right to the North edge and along it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zimořský sloup
Through a massive wide crack to the summit (poorly protected). Rock Climbing
1
Zimořský sloup
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kobercová věžička
Up the NW wall via K to a ledge and right to another ledge. Traverse into the upper wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Věž u klečící dívky
From the East chimney towards the fixed point on the NE edge, up the East wall to a bench… Rock Climbing
2
Věž u klečící dívky
From the massif, step across into the right part of the wall and to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Věž u klečící dívky
Through the upper chimney and along the 'Upper Route' to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kobercová věžička
Up the middle of the overhanging upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kobercová věžička
From the NE via an overhang to a ledge and right along a curved edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kobercová věžička
Up the North face via K to a ledge and left along the 'Normal Route' to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kobercová věžička
Via the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Marobud
From the West up to the ledge and traverse into the valley wall to the 1st bolt. Up above… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Marobud
Via the crack in M opposite the NW edge 4 m up, step over onto the ledge and right behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Marobud
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing

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