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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Marobud
Via the crack in M opposite the NW edge 4 m up, step over onto the ledge and right behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Marobud
From the bolt diagonally left to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Marobud
From the M spur from the East, traverse to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Marobud
From the massif from the north to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Marobud
From the bolt diagonally left behind the edge and here to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stojan
Through the middle of the left part of the valley wall to the clock, left to the 1st K… Rock Climbing
7
Stojan
In the right part of the valley (NE) wall, up to K, left into the crack and to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Marobud
In the left part of the upland wall to the bolt and via a small crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Stojan
From the boulder near the NE wall, step over into the wall, right into the crack and up… Rock Climbing
6
Stojan
From the right edge of the wall diagonally left and up under the overhang to the points.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Goliášova hlava
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Stojan
In the left part of the plateau wall, up the chimney to a short crack and along it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Lístek
From the saddle into the NW wall and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Goliášova hlava
Directly up the NE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Goliášova hlava
In the N wall from the left diagonally right onto the ledge and directly to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Stojan
From the boulder at the SE massif to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Béžovková stěna
Left part of the wall into the notch, traverse right to K and further along the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kouzelnická hůlka
Up the NW wall to the right onto the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Kouzelnická hůlka
Along the valley wall directly along the edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kouzelnická hůlka
Upwards along the left uphill edge. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4
Železná brána
Along the wall to the window, then left and upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Železná brána
Along the Southeast face into the window and upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Západní věž nad železnou bránou
Upwards along the East edge. Rock Climbing
2
Železná brána
From the Southwest, out of the massif and upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Železná brána
Through the chimney between M and the tower below the summit, over the overhang, and… Rock Climbing
3
Železná brána
In the left part of the Northwest face, left onto the ledge on the North edge, and… Rock Climbing
3
Západní věž nad železnou bránou
Upwards along the uphill edge. Rock Climbing
2
Západní věž nad železnou bránou
From the Southeast, out of the massif and upwards. Rock Climbing
2
Západní věž nad železnou bránou
Upwards through the middle of the small face. Rock Climbing
6
Dutohlávka
From the uphill side onto the ledge, right onto the edge and along it upwards. Rock Climbing

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