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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Sup
Via a small pillar in the center of the E wall along a ledge/strip to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Sup
From S briefly to the top. (or from a ledge in the W wall briefly over artificial steps… Rock Climbing
4
Železný masiv
In the E wall via a crack under an overhang to K, traverse right into the gully/notch and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Mládě
Via the West wall to K and along the rounded edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Mládě
Via the valley wall from the left to K and right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Mládě
From the massif, step over into the right part of the upper wall and shortly to the… Rock Climbing
2
Mládě
Shortly through the chimney to the fore-rock and left by stepping over to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Železný masiv
Middle of the left part of the wall along iron plates into a recess to the summit book… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Železný masiv
Chimney between the middle and right part of the massif n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Železný masiv
Through the chimney in the left part of M to the left summit, traversing into a crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Železný masiv
Converging double crack in the middle of the right part of the wall into a niche and by a… Rock Climbing
4
Železný masiv
Via a brittle small wall to the first fixed anchors in the left part of the wall, 2 m up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Železný masiv
2 m left of the wide crack along iron holds by the wall under the overhang (belay), up… Rock Climbing
4
Železný masiv
3 m right of the route "Roe Deer Mummy" by the wall to the iron holds. Along a… Rock Climbing
5
Železný masiv
Crack 2 m right of the route "Old Iron" over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Železný masiv
Wall 2 m left of the prominent chimney (dishes, spikes, watches and K) n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Matrona
Crack in the right part of the wall n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Matrona
Wide crack dividing M into two parts over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Matrona
Middle of the left half of the massif over iron pyrites (loops) to K and directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Železný masiv
Crack on the right edge of the wall into a small cave, obliquely left and by the crack of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Matrona
In the left part of M by the wall along an indistinct rib to the 1st K. Slightly left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Matrona
In the right part of the left half of the massif by the wall over a large iron pyrite … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Věž Václava Levého
Chimney between the W massif and the tower into the groove and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Věž Václava Levého
In the E face along the bench left to K, by a crack to the shelf and directly up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Pýchavka
In the NE face by a crack to the ledge and slightly left n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Pýchavka
In the left part of the NE face obliquely left to the E edge and in the upper part to the… Rock Climbing
4
Pýchavka
Edge to the left of the recess directly n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Věž Václava Levého
From the platform in the middle of the wall to the groove and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Věž Václava Levého
Edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Pýchavka
SW edge n. v. Rock Climbing

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