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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Pýchavka
SW edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Věž Václava Levého
Chimney between the N massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Věž Václava Levého
Edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Alzheimerova věž
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Alzheimerova věž
Right lower edge to the peak and over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Alzheimerova věž
Left of the chimney via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Alzheimerova věž
By jumping from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
9
Alzheimerova věž
Wall below the overhang over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Hadí korunka
West edge 3 m to the ledge in the N wall. Traverse along the ledge left into the original… Rock Climbing
3
Hadí korunka
In the right part of the upper wall diagonally right to the pinnacles and easily to the… Rock Climbing
5
Hadí korunka
Through the crack left of the original route up to its end, traverse right into the… Rock Climbing
4
Hadí korunka
Below the pinnacles directly upwards. Rock Climbing
8
Hadí korunka
In the fall line of the route "Crown for Reward" up the wall through the hole to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
4
Hadí korunka
Through the crack in the N wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Ohňová země
Through the crack in the northeast wall and higher up via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ohňová země
Through the crack in the southwest wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Pochodeň
From the west via a receding wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Pochodeň
Along the East face (left of the rappel) to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Pochodeň
Along the North ridge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Hřebenulka
Middle of the E wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Hřebenulka
From the turret from the northwest to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Hřebenulka
NE edge to the summit. (Currently degraded - by artificial steps, original classification… Rock Climbing
5
Hřebenulka
SW edge using small projections/pinnacles to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Zadní Maří
Along the West ridge to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Jeskynní věž
Through the middle of the East face via K and hourglass to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zadní Maří
Along the East ridge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Zadní Maří
Through the middle of the SE face to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Zadní Maří
Along the South ridge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Jeskynní věž
From the second hole of the Hourglass Route left onto a small ledge on the edge and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5
Jeskynní věž
In the middle of the valley wall into a hole with large hourglasses, directly up into… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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