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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Balšoj těátr
Through the right chimney between the (attached) small tower called "Primabalerina" and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Balšoj těátr
Up the wall to the left of the chimney near "Primabalerina" to a prominent rib. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Balšoj těátr
Through the left chimney between the small tower called "Primabalerina" and the massif to… Rock Climbing
3
Balšoj těátr
Through the chimney in the right part of the massif between the pillar and the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Balšoj těátr
In the right part of the massif, to the left of the route "Not all that glitters is Lidl"… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Balšoj těátr
Via the corner crack to the balcony and briefly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Balšoj těátr
To the left of the chimney in the middle part of the massif, up the wall into a crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Balšoj těátr
Through the crack-chimney to the left of the route "Memory of the Blacksmith" to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Balšoj těátr
In the right part of the massif, along the edge of the slab under the overhang (loop) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Beránek
In the right part of the plateau (E) wall of the main tower along the small cracks to the… Rock Climbing
1
Beránek
From the wide inner chimney via a narrow chimney to the S, up to the small crack and to… Rock Climbing
4
Beránek
Via a wide inner chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Beránek
From the valley side into the chimney in the widened valley part and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Beránek
Left of the route "Forma" (behind the edge) through the center of the small wall to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Beránek
In the left part of the N wall directly to a bolt and upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Beránek
Right of the "Normal Route" along the cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Balšoj těátr
Via the crack in the SW wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Beránek
From the plateau (E) side via the chimney between the main tower and the N turret onto… Rock Climbing
7
Betlém
Via the crack over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Betlém
Via the North face (slings) right to the edge and along it over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Betlém
Via a wide crack over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Beránek
Through the center of the valley wall over a bolt into the groove and via it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Beránek
Along the SE edge over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Beránek
In the middle of the plateau wall via a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Beránek
Along the crack in the left part of the plateau wall below the summit, traverse left and… Rock Climbing
3
Betlém
Via the chimney in the large corner to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Beránek
From the S into the chimney and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Čtvero ročních období
In the left part of the massif, via the right crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Betlém
Through the center of the west face over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Betlém
Over the overhang into the hollow to a bolt and via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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