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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Čtvero ročních období
In the left part of the massif, left of the chimney, via a short sloping wall along holes… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Čtvero ročních období
In the left part of the massif, via the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Betlém
Via the edge below the rappel over a bolt around a fixed anchor to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Betlém
Through the center of the west face over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Betlém
Via a narrow chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Betlém
Via the crack and wall over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čtvero ročních období
Via the hand crack over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Čtvero ročních období
Through the chimney below the abseil to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Čtvero ročních období
In the middle part of the massif, to the right of the chimney, up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Čtvero ročních období
Through the chimney in the left part of the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Čtvero ročních období
Up the wall to the left of the edge (several watches) to K and from the left to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čtvero ročních období
Up the wall into the crack and through it over K to the ledge. Then via the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Čtvero ročních období
In the middle part of the massif, to the right of the chimney (abseil, VK), up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čtvero ročních období
Up the wall to K. Into the ledge and left to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Listopadová
Through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Čtvero ročních období
Through the right chimney in the right part of the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Čtvero ročních období
Through the left chimney in the right part of the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Čtvero ročních období
Through the wide crack in the right part of the massif, to the left of the Spring Chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Listopadová
From the valley side, through the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Listopadová
In the left part of the valley wall, slightly left through the hole to K. From the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Listopadová
From S or E by traversing to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Listopadová
Up the valley chimney for several meters, then traverse to the pillar to K and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Listopadová
In the left part of the valley wall along the crack over K to the pillar to K of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Listopadová
Along the blunt edge in the right part of the valley wall to K and then via the crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sochařská věž
Through the center of the plateau wall via K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Kumštýř Pravá část
Through the crack over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Sochařská věž
In the plateau wall, traverse into the chimney between the E massif and the tower, and up… Rock Climbing
1
Sochařská věž
From the massif from NW, traverse to the top (or descend and cross. I;) Rock Climbing
6
Sochařská věž
In the left part of the valley wall, diagonally left through a corner to the crack (knots… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sochařská věž
Via the corner crack in the left part of the valley wall over K (loop) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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