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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Sochařská věž
Through the crack in the right part of the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kumštýř Pravá část
By the wall to the right of the chimney over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Sochařská věž
From the massif from NW, traverse to the top (or descend and cross. I;) Rock Climbing
7
Kumštýř Pravá část
By the wall over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kumštýř Levá část
Through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kumštýř Levá část
Through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kumštýř Pravá část
To the left of the route "Such Normal Killers" by the wall over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kumštýř Levá část
Through the chimney to the left of the bivouac to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kumštýř Levá část
Through the chimney above the passage to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Kumštýř Pravá část
In the right part of the massif by the wall over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kumštýř Levá část
Through the wide chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čertovský kopejtko
Through the east face to the small balcony and along the gully (UFO no. 2) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čertovský kopejtko
Through the center of the S wall below the abseil point to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Čertovský kopejtko
Through the right part of the S wall, higher up via the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Čertovský kopejtko
From the massif from the S to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Čertovský kopejtko
From the massif from the SE to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Čertovský kopejtko
By opposition between the SE edge and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Lvice a lví stěna
Through the chimney in the left part of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Lvice a lví stěna
In the left part of the wall from the corner by bridging between two narrow chimneys to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Lvice a lví stěna
To the left of the route "Wizard's Cloak" along the wall over 3 K, diagonally left into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Lvice a lví stěna
Along the wall and corner below the rappel point to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Lvice a lví stěna
From the 3rd K directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Lvice a lví stěna
Through the chimney in the right part of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Lvice a lví stěna
Through the east wall over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Lvice a lví stěna
Briefly along the wall into the crack and along it all the way to the end below the… Rock Climbing
2
Lvice a lví stěna
Through the inner chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Věž Helgy
From the gorge to the right to the W edge and along it via (K) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Věž Helgy
In the downhill wall diagonally left to the edge to the 1st K. Along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Věž Helgy
Through the middle of the north wall over iron holds to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Lvice a lví stěna
To the right of the rib through the curved chimney to the top. Rock Climbing

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