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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Lavice
From the corner to the left onto the balcony to K and up a small crack n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Lavice
Through the left part of the attached feature to K and up a small crack n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Lavice
Between the routes "Xylophone" and "For Alice" directly up the wall past the 2nd K of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Lavice
Through the right corner n. t. Secured at the K of the "Spartakiádní 85" route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Lavice
Through the corner to the right of "The Hesitant Way" n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Lavice
Start at the pine tree, up the wall to the fallen birch. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Opičí stěna
Through the valley chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Lavice
Up the wall 3 m to the right of the "Kominíček" (Little Chimney) route and along the… Rock Climbing
5
Lavice
To the right in the wall, along a curved crack to its end. From the balcony to the left,… Rock Climbing
7
Opičí stěna
In the left part of the valley wall, through the corner crack to the bench and further up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Lavice
Up "The Hesitant Way", higher up to the left through the wall into the chimney. Rock Climbing
3
Opičí stěna
In the northwest face, by twin crack n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Opičí stěna
Via the crack in the right part of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Opičí stěna
Up the middle of the SE wall over 3 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Opičí stěna
In the middle of the wall to the diagonal crack and along it n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Vendulka
From the highest point via the chimney to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Opičí stěna
In the right part of the SE wall along small cracks to a notch and left to the hourglass… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Vendulka
Start at the left edge up the wall to a small balcony. Left diagonally along a receding… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Opičí stěna
Traverse from the right to the bolt of the route "Shadow Play". Up along the edge to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Opičí stěna
Via the right valley edge to a bolt, left to a rib, via it to a crack and via that to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kladivo
Up the middle of the narrower wall, higher up via a dihedral to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Kladivo
Via the left valley edge over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Vendulka
Start 3 m right of the route "Flying Saucers" via a diagonal notch and higher to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Vendulka
In the middle of the wall, along the dihedral crack left to its end and to the bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vendulka
Start between the tooth and the slab, via a dihedral and along the birches to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Masiv slunce
Left onto an isolated block in the right part of the wall over 3 bolts into a crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Masiv slunce
Overhanging fragile wall to the edge to the 1st bolt. Further to the 2nd bolt and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kladivo
Via the right valley edge, or from the chimney left onto the edge, over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Masiv slunce
In the left part of the massif, up the diagonal wall over a bolt into a gully and via it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Masiv slunce
Left of the route "Kon-Tiki" to the 1st bolt. Up the wall slightly left to the 2nd bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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