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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Masiv slunce
Briefly to the balcony and via the corner to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Masiv slunce
Up the wall directly to the 2nd bolt of the original route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Masiv slunce
Up the wall to the 1st bolt, slightly right to the 2nd bolt, diagonally left and upwards… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Masiv slunce
Left of the route "Dangerous Sports" about 3 m right of the edge. Via the wall over 4 K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Masiv slunce
Left of the route "Arch" via the wall over 1st K to the ledge to 2nd K, right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Masiv slunce
Through the middle of the wall to K, briefly upwards and right into a depression and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Masiv slunce
From the 1st bolt of the original route directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jezevčí stěna
Via the wall along the edge to the ledge left to K and via the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Jezevčí stěna
Through the middle of the SW wall to 1st K, from there diagonally upwards right, via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jezevčí stěna
From the tourist path via the overhang to the crack, along it to K and via the crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jezevčí stěna
Via the wall diagonally left and higher to K, via the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Masiv slunce
Left of the route "Nut Chocolate" via the wall to K. Via the wall under the arch, under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Masiv slunce
In the right part of the wall via a curved crack over K into the chimney and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Jezevčí stěna
Via the chimney in the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Jezevčí stěna
Start identical to "Valley Route" then right via a crack to K and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Jezevčí stěna
From the right via the wall, or directly onto the edge to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Jezevčík
Left of the route "Beech Crack" via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Jezevčík
Via the smooth wall diagonally right to K, further into a distinct depression, through it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Jezevčík
In the left part of the North wall via a crack to the balcony, right and via the route … Rock Climbing
4
Zlaté jablko
Along the north edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Zlaté jablko
Through the middle of the valley wall via the crack, higher up, over the overhang, then… Rock Climbing
4
Jezevčík
In the right part of the wall via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Koruna
In the right part of the valley wall diagonally left to the crack and overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zlaté jablko
Via the "Spring Route" above the overhang, left and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Koruna
From the "Golden Apple" to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Zlaté jablko
Along the left valley, indistinct edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Koruna
Up the valley chimney to the middle of the wall onto the laid-back edge and along it to… Rock Climbing
3
Čintamani a ptáci
Up the chimney left of the corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Koruna
Start on the upper side along the "Sceptre" ledge to the right upper edge of the tower,… Rock Climbing
6-
Čintamani a ptáci
Left of the "Corner Route" up the wall diagonally to the edge to the bolt. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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