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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Věž Helgy
At the left edge of the NE wall up to the overhang, bypassing it to the left and n. v. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Věž Helgy
From the uphill side to the left via K to the middle of the wall and over the rib to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Soví stěna
Directly up the wall to 2 K and by the original route n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Soví stěna
Through the narrowing chimney to the ledge and right to the summit book and n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Soví stěna
Left in the wall through a crack n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Soví stěna
In the left part of the wall through a hole to 1st K, diagonally right to 2nd K and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Soví stěna
Through the chimney left of the route "Restík" n. t. Rock Climbing
8
Soví stěna
Up the pillar wall left of "Fast Chimney" over 2 K to the ledge and through the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Soví stěna
From the ledge along the edge directly n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Soví stěna
From 2nd K of the original route diagonally right to the ledge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Soví stěna
Start 4 m right of the route "Unfavorable Outlook" directly up the wall to 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Soví stěna
Left of the corner by an overhanging crack over K into a hole and higher up by crack n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Soví stěna
2 m left of the route "Green Whale" up the wall along the edge over K to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Soví stěna
By hand crack over 2 steps to the ledge and right up the wall over iron plates n. t. Rock Climbing
8
Soví stěna
From K directly up and further n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Soví stěna
Up the wall to the 'sokolíky' (small falcons/chimneys) and to K, from there diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Soví stěna
Through the chimney in the right part of the wall n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
Soví stěna
From the left over (BH) to the edge to 1st K, then along it over 2nd K to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Soví stěna
In the right part of the wall, to the left to the chimney and along it n. t. Rock Climbing
8
Soví stěna
Report by the wall to 1st K. Left and along the edge over 2 K clockwise, left wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Soví stěna
3 m to the right of the "Cesta ze zadu" (Way from Behind) route, by crack and wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Soví stěna
To the right of the "Cesta ze zadu" (Way from Behind) route, by crack into the chimney n.… Rock Climbing
4
Lavice
In the left part of the wall by crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Lavice
Up a prominent edge in the left part of the wall past 2 K to the ledge. Along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Lavice
To the left of the corner, by a wide crack n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
Lavice
In the left part of the wall over K to the ledge, to the right into a wider chimney and n… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Lavice
In the corner by twin crack, higher up to the right by chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Lavice
Through the right corner n. t. Secured at the K of the "Spartakiádní 85" route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Lavice
Between the routes "Xylophone" and "For Alice" directly up the wall past the 2nd K of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Lavice
Through the long chimney n. t. Rock Climbing

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