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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Kóta 317
In the right part of the SE wall over the iron plate n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Buková stěna
To the left in the NW wall upwards along the crack to K. To the left into the gully and n… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Buková stěna
Completely in the left part of the massif, a separate block, along the right edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Buková stěna
Through the crack in the NW wall n. t. Rock Climbing
6-
Buková stěna
Completely in the left part of the massif, a separate block, along the left rounded edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Buková stěna
From the gorge traverse by the wall right around the corner under an overhanging crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Buková stěna
To the right of the Bivouac Crack by the edge over 2 bolts to the tower top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Buková stěna
In the left part of the wall by the corner under the overhang. Through the overhanging… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Buková stěna
From the center of the wall left to the bolt, further left and directly by the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Buková stěna
To the left of the edge of the overhang and crack to its end and to the 1st K. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Buková stěna
Through a wide crack over K. n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Buková stěna
By the wall to the right of the route 'In the Sunshine' over 2 bolts to the tower top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Buková stěna
By the edge, higher up by an arête-like gully over the bolt to the ledge of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Buková stěna
By a crack to the right of the rappel point to the tower top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Buková stěna
By a hand crack to the bolt, by a bend and by a chimney to the tower top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Buková stěna
In the largest corner by an overhanging arête to the bolt and by an overhanging crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Masabob
By the east wall, to the right of the 'Normal Route' to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Buková stěna
By the wall from SE or S, diagonally left upwards to the bolt. Higher up by the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Buková stěna
By the wall below the rappel point to the 1st bolt, briefly upwards, left to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Buková stěna
In the left part of the bivouac by climbing into the gully, diagonally by a crack to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Masabob
In the right part of the north wall into the crack to the bolt, left to a small balcony,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bobík
By the right upper edge to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Masabob
From the massif from the E, step over to the small wall of a narrow boulder, to a ledge… Rock Climbing
5
Masabob
By the chimney between Bobík and the tower, over the hourglasses to its end, step over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Masabob
Traverse to the top of the boulder and by its narrow north wall to the tower top. Rock Climbing
5
Bobík
Through the center of the S wall to the bolt, left to a small ledge on the edge and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Bobík
By the upper wall to the left of the pine tree, over the hourglasses to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Masabob
By the left part of the south wall over the hourglasses to the bolt, traverse right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Masabob
By a squeeze between a narrow boulder and the tower to a large ledge and to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Šedivá hlava
Through the chimney to the false summit and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing

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