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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Šedivá hlava
In the middle of the plateau wall, along the blunt edge through the hole to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Šedivá hlava
Through the chimney to the false summit and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Šedivá hlava
From the E edge to the right into the center of the NE wall and directly to the top over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bobík
Through the straddling chimney between 'Masabob' and the tower, over the hourglasses to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Šedivá hlava
Up the small wall to the right below the turret in the valley wall to the ledge and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Bobík
From 'Masabob' to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Půlnoční věž
From the terrace in the valley wall through an indentation to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Beškovský kostelík
Between the fore-rock and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Beškovský kostelík
From the fore-rock to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Půlnoční věž
Through the indentation in the West wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Rybička
Through the center of the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Beškovský kostelík
Up the plateau wall diagonally from right to left to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Půlnoční věž
From the plateau side left over the edge into the indentation and by the original route… Rock Climbing
1
Loupežníkův hrad
From the massif, jump straight up to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Tlustá víla
In the right part of the plateau wall through a wide chimney and gully to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Rybička
From the fore-rock to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Rybička
Along the West ridge to the crest and to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Tlustá víla
Inside the plateau chimney by friction and the smooth wall from the left to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Loupežníkův hrad
Through the indentation in the W wall to the terrace under the overhang, over it from the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Loupežníkův hrad
From the SE edge traverse along the bench (pitons) to the S edge (pitons), upwards and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Loupežníkův hrad
From the boulder in the saddle diagonally left to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Loupežníkův hrad
Up the wall along the S edge to the ledge of the Traverse route and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
2
Loupežníkův hrad
From the boulder in the saddle between M and the tower, straight up the wall (pitons) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Timova věž
Up the right part of the smooth SW wall over the clocks. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Timova věž
Up the edge from the plateau side. Rock Climbing
3
Loupežníkův hrad
By friction between the North edge and M on the ledge (pitons), right behind the edge and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Loupežníkův hrad
From the N edge right onto the terraces in the W wall, from their right part over a step,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Timova věž
In the SW wall from the terrace through the corner and over the steps to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Timova věž
From the terrace along the W edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Timova věž
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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