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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Timova věž
In the SW wall from the terrace through the corner and over the steps to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Timova věž
From the terrace along the W edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Timova věž
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Timova věž
In the right part of the E wall directly over the overhang into a small crack and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Věž K.S.B..
Up the North face 1 m from the Falcon crack, directly up the smooth wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž K.S.B..
From the ledge in the plateau wall of the massif, traverse and directly over the loose… Rock Climbing
4
Věž K.S.B..
Completely to the left in the plateau wall by a wide crack, later a small wall and to the… Rock Climbing
7
Svatební věž
Through the middle of the plateau face over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Svatební věž
In the right part of the valley wall over K into a horizontal notch (left clock),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Svatební věž
Up the overhanging NE edge to the pitons and left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Svatební věž
Along the NE edge up the wall below the abseil point to the bolt and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Vyklestilka
From the right side of M, descend to the catwalk and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Patlan
From the edge of the massif from the ledge, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vyklestilka
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Svatební věž
Through the recess at the NW edge over a brittle overhang and diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vyklestilka
From the plateau side, by stemming onto the back of the wedged block and further to its… Rock Climbing
6-
Stěna mrzáků
Up the wall to the right of the chimney onto the ledge. Traverse to the 1st bolt, 5 m… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Stěna mrzáků
In the left part of the wall, up the right of the two cracks to the ledge and further up… Rock Climbing
3
Stěna mrzáků
Up the chimney to the right of the wide corner to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Vydlabanec
Through the left part of the plateau face through the hole to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Vydlabanec
1 m right of the E edge to the bolt on the slab, left onto the edge and upwards (pitons)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vydlabanec
Up the chimney in the middle of the SW face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Vydlabanec
Up the overhanging northeast face (slings) to the bolt. Along the crack to the 2nd bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Vydlabanec
From the terrace in the NE face, diagonally right from the chimney to the 1st bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Vydlabanec
From the center of the SW face along the terrace slightly to the W edge (pitons). Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vydlabanec
Through the corner and up the chimney in the right part of the SW face directly to the… Rock Climbing
3
Marod
Along the edge from the East to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Marod
Along the plateau ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Mravenčí hlava
Along the valley face over anchor (K) to the platform (belay station). By the normal… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Marod
Through the middle of the plateau wall (below the abseil point) to the summit. Rock Climbing

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