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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Marod
Along the plateau ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Magor
Along the left edge on the slab over anchor (K) to the small balcony, along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Marod
From the plateau side left behind the edge into the small cave. From the left up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Marod
Through the middle of the plateau wall (below the abseil point) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Bermudský trojúhelník
Through the middle of the North overhang directly into the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Uhlířská věž
In the plateau face diagonally left and upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Bermudský trojúhelník
Along the gently sloped Northeast wall over carved steps and to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Uhlířská věž
Through the chimney and along the Northeast edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Uhlířská věž
Along the overhanging crack in the valley face (slings) to the 1st anchor (K). Difficult… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Mravenčí hlava
From the plateau side easily to the terrace. Rock Climbing
6
Uhlířská věž
Through the middle of the West face to the small pinnacle/feature and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Uhlířská věž
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zahrádka
Between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Zahrádka
From the massif, over the drop/edge, left to the abseil anchor (K), traverse and to the… Rock Climbing
6
Zahrádka
In the South face along iron-rich ledges to the terrace in the valley face to anchor (K),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Srnka
Up the overhanging edge to the right of the tree to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Zahrádka
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Srnka
Up the upper wall to the left of the tree directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Milíř
Up the right part of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Milíř
Up the center of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Ludrák
Up the right part of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Milíř
Through the center of the valley wall to the balcony and over the 1st K to the 2nd K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Milíř
From the center of the upper wall, traverse left and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Ludrák
Through the North chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Ludrák
Up the valley wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Ludrák
Through the South chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vykotlaný zub
From Haňulka, jump to the balcony, via steps to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Vykotlaný zub
From the start of the "Skull" route to the left and up around the edge to K. Into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Vykotlaný zub
To the right on the SW wall via a gully to a ledge, from the left over an overhang, via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vykotlaný zub
Start by the "Old Route" higher up with a wide chimney and then an overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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