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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Strážce Suchého mlýna
Through the east chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
9
Peckovitá stěna
Left of the "Hadovka" route, up the wall into an overhanging small chimney/corner,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Strážce Suchého mlýna
Along the NE edge to the large hourglass/thread, right and up over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Strážce Suchého mlýna
From the footbridge from SW briefly over the bulge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Zámecká vyhlídka
Through the chimney below the bridge to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Podzámecká věž
From the massif from the south to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Podzámecká věž
Through the crack in the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Strážce Suchého mlýna
In the north wall through a crack and a small wall to the 1st K. Directly up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Strážce Suchého mlýna
From the southern massif, traverse/jump to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Strážce Suchého mlýna
Through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Satanova hlava
In the S wall from the left to the notch, up through it and a crawl under the boulder to… Rock Climbing
3
Satanova hlava
From the left edge of the terrace below the S wall diagonally left and to another terrace… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Satanova hlava
From the terrace below the S wall from the left to a higher terrace, right along the… Rock Climbing
5
Satanova hlava
Along the right edge of the plateau wall, higher up by a straddle/wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Paulina
Via the plateau edge diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Obydlená věž
From the massif, traverse/overhang over the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Satanova hlava
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Paulina
Right on the plateau wall via a rib (SM) to the bench and left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Jezová věž
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Obydlená věž
From the massif, descend via the chimney and traverse to the fore-rock, left and via the… Rock Climbing
4
Obydlená věž
From the plateau side (from the bivouac) through an inner chimney to the pre-summit, step… Rock Climbing
4
Obydlená věž
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Jezová věž
From the massif, step over the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Mr. Peter Stuyvesant
Up the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mr. Peter Stuyvesant
Along the rib and the SW edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mr. Peter Stuyvesant
Along the valley NW edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Zakletá věž
In the left part of the uphill wall by bridging n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Zakletá věž
From the uphill side through the chimney and a small wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Zakletá věž
From the saddle below the uphill wall, right along the ledge to the small pinnacle,… Rock Climbing
5
Zakletá věž
In the SE wall, right to the small pinnacle, through it into the corner and n. v. Rock Climbing

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