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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Včelí věž
In the W wall through a crack, higher up through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hradba
From the valley through the chimney below the upper wedged boulder and through a passage… Rock Climbing
4
Hradba
Along the edge and through a crack below the abseil point to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Hradba
Up the wall below the abseil point to a ledge (hourglass) and via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hradba
From the right onto the valley edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Hradba
Through the upper chimney over a wedged boulder to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Hradba
Access in the valley wall to the right of the chimney. With a difficult high step from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Hradba
Through a short crack in the narrow upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Včelí hrad
Briefly up the chimney between M and the tower to the ledge and along the rounded edge… Rock Climbing
1
Včelí hrad
From the massif right of the "Old Route" a step across upwards. Rock Climbing
1
Hradba
By jumping down from the adjacent massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Včelí hrad
In the center of the NE wall via the small pillar and up the wall to the ledge and… Rock Climbing
6
Včelí hrad
In the left part of the north wall to the ledge to the clock, right through the notch… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Včelí hrad
Crack to the left of the backdrop over the steps to K on the ledge, traverse right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Včelí hrad
Via the crack from the north to the balcony and up the chimney upwards. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Včelí hrad
Left of the "Right Crack" up the wall over 2 K upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Včelí hrad
From the valley side up the wall below the crack to K. Up the crack to the balcony and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Včelí hrad
Left of the "North Crack" up the wall along the edge to the balcony and via the "North… Rock Climbing
6
Včelí hrad
Via the northern overhanging edge into the crack and along it to the 1st K, up the smooth… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Včelí hrad
Via the left valley crack over K into the gully and directly upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Včelí hrad
Along the right edge of the backdrop, over the overhangs upwards. Rock Climbing
7
Včelí hrad
Right of the "South Crack" up the wall over 2 K upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Včelí hrad
Up the wall left of the backdrop over K upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Včelí hrad
From the south via a notch and crack to the clock. Up the small wall on the left or… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Včelí hrad
Via the left chimney between the backdrop and the tower upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Včelí hrad
In the northwest wall via the right chimney between the backdrop and the tower upwards. Rock Climbing
7
Včelí hrad
Right of the "South Crack" up the wall to K, right into the crack and upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Včelí hrad
Right of the backdrop in the left part of the wall to K, up the wall and slightly right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Včelí hrad
From the massif left of the "Old Route" upwards. Rock Climbing
1
Včelí hrad
From the uphill side via layback and notch upwards. Rock Climbing

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