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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Včelí hrad
Via an oblique notch along the South edge (loop), traverse right onto an oblique ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Včelí hrad
From the uphill side via layback and notch upwards. Rock Climbing
2
Stříbrná opona
In the SW wall, through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Stříbrná opona
From the gully, through a narrow chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Stříbrná opona
From the SE, from the gully via a hollow to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Stříbrná opona
In the right part of the SW wall over K to the ledge (hourglass) and right along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Stříbrná opona
Up the crack for several meters, then diagonally left via an arête-like crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Stříbrná opona
To the right of the route "First Swallow", up the wall over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Stříbrná opona
Via the crack, then via the double crack to the small balcony and via the left crack to… Rock Climbing
6
Stříbrná opona
Up the wall to the left of the route "Way of the Cross" over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Stříbrná opona
From the valley side, through the passage into the interior space and here right up the… Rock Climbing
7
Stříbrná opona
Along the north edge to the 1st K, traverse right to the W edge to the 2nd K and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Přízemní věž
From the massif with an oak, a jump to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Přízemní věž
In the left part of the S wall, directly up the wall to the iron holds and to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Přízemní věž
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Přízemní věž
Along the plateau edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
August
In the right part of the valley face, over the overhang directly over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
August
Through the middle of the summit face to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Psí masiv
To the left in the west face via an S-shaped crack into the chimney and through it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Psí masiv
In the middle of the west face over K into the chimney and through it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Psí masiv
In the right part of the west face, to the right of the route "Bejšina cesta" via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Psí masiv
Through the middle of the S wall over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Psí masiv
In the left part of the south face to the cracks and to K. Via the wall into the recess… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Psí masiv
In the south face to the left of the route "Mat" to its 3rd K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Větrná bába
Via a narrow south face over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Větrná bába
Via the left chimney between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Psí masiv
Completely to the right via the chimney to a small platform and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Větrná bába
Via a crack on the western fore-rock and the right edge of the valley face over 2 K to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Psí masiv
In the right part of the S wall via a prominent crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Psí masiv
In the right part of the south face, left of "Dog's Crack" via the wall over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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