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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Prófa
Along the SW edge to K and right upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Prófa
Through the corner upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Prófa
In the right part of the E face over the overhang and via the notch to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Prófa
In the chimney between the tower and "Kejchal" (The Sneezing One) by opposition and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Prófa
From the chimney between the tower and "Kejchal" to the SE ridge and traverse right into… Rock Climbing
6
Prófa
In the left part of the N face via the pedestal to the Corner and left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Štístko
Left of the "Štígro" route, along indistinct ledges in the fall line of the birch… Rock Climbing
2
Štístko
Through the SE chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Štístko
Via the crack left of the "SE chimney" to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Štístko
Start in the center of the NW face and diagonally right to the Corner. Directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Štístko
From the boulder in the N face, up the wall to the ledge (knots) and directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Štístko
Via the South pillar to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Prófa
In the right part of the N face directly upwards, below the summit right into the corner… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
7
Prófa
Via the "Magnetic Route" directly into the small crack and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
2
Štístko
Via the right or left crack to the small balcony and through the narrow chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Štístko
Start 2m right of the boulder in the N face. Up along the indistinct crack to the ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Stydlín
Through the center of the SE face to the pedestal and via the hourglasses to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Stydlín
In the SE face from the highest point of the terrain directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Štístko
From the south via artificial steps to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Stydlín
Through the gully from the east to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Štístko
Left of the "Normal Route", left onto the ledge and traverse to the Corner. Through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Štístko
Start in the fall line of the gully and up the face (hourglasses) to the Corner and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Stydlín
In the left part of the SE face along the edge over the Corner to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Stydlín
In the right part of the SE face, go right to the pinnacle and diagonally left to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Stydlín
Approach like "Old Route" and then traverse left to the gallery/walkway (loop).… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Stydlín
From the West via artificial steps. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Stydlín
Through the center of the NW face. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Stydlín
Left of the "Slanted Chimney" route, traverse diagonally left to the N ridge and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Stydlín
In the left part of the NW face via the slanted chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Stydlín
Start 2m right of the "Slanted Chimney" and directly over the ledges to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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