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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6-
Sudety
In the left part of the north face over a piton n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4
Sudety
Through the chimney n.t. Rock Climbing
4
Sudety
Through the chimney, further along the edge, hourglasses and n.t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Sudety
Through the middle of the north face over 2 pitons n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Vanesska
Through the middle of the south face to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Vanesska
By bridging between the tower and the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Vanesska
Through the middle of the north face to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Smrtihlav
Through the right crack of the small wall to its end (sling) and left to Sl. K. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Smrtihlav
Through the middle of the wall via 2 bolts to the top. "Route to the adjacent massif." Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4
Smrtihlav
Along the left edge of the small wall, traverse right to Sl. K. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
1
Vanesska
Traverse from the massif to the tower. Rock Climbing
6
Smrtihlav
Through the wall to the left of the route „Spi švagře“ (Sleep brother-in-law) to the bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Smrtihlav
Through the middle of the small wall directly to Sl. K. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
2
Katedra
Through the chimney in the left side wall of the massif to the terrace. Rock Climbing
6
Smrtihlav
Through the left crack in the long wall (slings) to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Smrtihlav
Through the right part of the long wall via 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Smrtihlav
In the south face via a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Smrtihlav
From the uphill side by an upswing to the top. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6
Smrtihlav
Through the right crack in the long wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8
Smrtihlav
In the left part of the long wall via 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Katedra
Up the middle of the wall over 2 rings to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
8
Rákoska
Via the overhanging edge into the crack (slings) and over the overhang to the ring. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Katedra
From the left to the attached small tower (or turret) on the ledge and up the wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Rákoska
Through the valley chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6-
Rákoska
Up the middle of the south wall over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
Kantor
Via the right part of the wall over 3 rings to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
1
Rákoska
Jump from the massif to the tower. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Kantor
Up the wall along the edge to the ledge, slightly right to the ring. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Památka Venci Šatánka
Through the chimney in the middle of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
8
Památka Venci Šatánka
In the right part of the wall over the organ pipes to the 1st ring, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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