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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
8
Památka Venci Šatánka
In the right part of the wall over the organ pipes to the 1st ring, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Památka Venci Šatánka
By stemming between the edge of the adjacent tower and M to the end, over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Památka Venci Šatánka
Up the side wall to the left of the "Birch Wall" to K and slightly left to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Památka Venci Šatánka
Along the southeast edge to the small balcony to the 1st K. Along the edge to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Břízová stěna
In the left half of the right part of the wall to the 1st K, then into the large hole and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Trempský pilíř
Through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Čundrák
From the bivouac through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Trempský pilíř
Through the crack to the right in the valley wall to the ledge to the 1st K. Up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Čundrák
Through the crack from the slope in the west wall to K and further to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Čundrák
Right of the bivouac to the small balcony to the 1st K. Overhanging entry along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Trempský pilíř
In the east wall, right of the chimney, along the edge to the ledge to K, then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Trempský pilíř
Through the crack chimney in the center of the valley wall to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Trempský pilíř
Through the crack to the 1st K of the "Potlach" route. Right into the corner and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pavlačová stěna
Through the chimney from the large ledge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pavlačová stěna
From the large ledge, up the crack in the center of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rezavý pilíř
Through the wide crack in the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Zadní strážce
Through the northeast corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zadní strážce
All the way to the left along the northeast edge to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Rezavý pilíř
From the start into the wide crack, up the iron-stained wall and left behind the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Rezavý pilíř
Up the prominent pillar on iron-stained holds over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Rezavý pilíř
From the corner in the west face, through a crack to K and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Zadní strážce
Through the crack in the east face to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Skála na ostrohu
Through the middle of the valley wall via a crack, broken in the upper part, to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Skála na ostrohu
From the west chimney left behind the edge to 1. K. Up the wall to 2. K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Zadní strážce
To the right in the east face, from the grassy ledge right onto the edge and along it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Zadní strážce
From the valley side via a small crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Skála na ostrohu
Through the chimney from the SE to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Skála na ostrohu
In the east face over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Skála na ostrohu
Through cracks in the overhanging west face over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Skála na ostrohu
Through the squeeze chimney over a large wedged boulder to the top. Rock Climbing

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