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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Skála na ostrohu
Through the chimney between the pillar to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Vklíněná stěna
In the right part of the wall, through a crack into a large hole and to 1. K. Through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Vklíněná stěna
Through the chimney between "Wedged Wall" and "Spur Guardian" and briefly up the sloping… Rock Climbing
3
Skála na ostrohu
Through the right chimney in the west face to the saddle and to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Skála na ostrohu
From the plateau side, descend to the saddle and briefly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vklíněná stěna
Through the left part of the wall over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vklíněná stěna
Through the perforated pillar to the left of the chimney over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážce ostrohu
From the corner from the northeast along the edge to K and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážce ostrohu
Along the right north edge K further to the balcony and over a large wedged block n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Strážce ostrohu
Up the wall from the right to 2 K of the route "Saxon Tricks" further to the left and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Strážce ostrohu
Through the middle of the north face to K on the large balcony. Further via the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážce ostrohu
Through the斜 crack to K and further like the route "Donga" n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Strážce ostrohu
Through the chimney between the peaks to the main summit. Rock Climbing
4
Strážce ostrohu
Up the valley wall to K on the pillar and further up the small crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Strážce ostrohu
From the right onto the edge and along it over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Strážce ostrohu
In the right part of the north face along the small crack to K. To the balcony and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Panenská stěna
Through a wide crack in the right part of the wall n. t. Rock Climbing
1
Strážce ostrohu
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Strážce ostrohu
Through the middle of the foresight up the wall to K and further via the route "Nice Way"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Strážce ostrohu
Along the right edge of the right foresight to its summit. Further to the tree and via… Rock Climbing
6-
Panenská stěna
Through the middle of the wall over the overhang to 1st K, slightly left to 2nd K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Panenská stěna
Through the middle of the wall via the Falconette crack (loop), up the wall to K, upwards… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Vejminek
To the right of the route "Normal Ascent" up the small wall n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Vejminek
From the corner to the right in the plateau wall through a shallow crack to K and n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vejminek
From 1st K of the route "Watch out for the shelf" along the edge, left under the crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vejminek
Through the middle of the north face over 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vejminek
To the left in the north face from the balcony with an overhanging start to K and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Vejminek
From the middle of the north face along the ledge to the right to the edge to 1st K. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Vejminek
From the corner in the route "Razor Blades" to the left onto the edge to 1st K. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vejminek
From the corner in the route "Razor Blades" through a narrow chimney to K and an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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