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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Stěna sloupu jih
Up the crack to the start of the sloping shelf and right to the 1st bolt. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna sloupu jih
From the grassy balcony, left along the edge over 2 bolts to the balcony of the route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kanárková stěna
In the left part of the wall, up a crack to the 1st bolt onto a small balcony, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Komsomolská stěna
To the right of the plateau chimney, descend the gully to a ledge and traverse right… Rock Climbing
2
Komsomolská stěna
From the saddle via a short edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Komsomolská stěna
Entry via a crack at the right edge to a small balcony to the 1st K. Up the wall slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kanárková stěna
Up the center of the wall via a wide crack into a shallow hole to the bolt and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Komsomolská stěna
From the saddle into the crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kanárková stěna
Start in the right part at the base of the wall. Up the crack to a step to the 1st bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Komsomolská stěna
In the valley face via a chimney to the 1st K, right to the edge, along it to the 2nd K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Komsomolská stěna
From the start of the "Route of Non-Partisans" traverse left behind the edge to the 1st K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Komsomolská stěna
Entry in the left part of the NE face, via a small crack slightly left to the edge and to… Rock Climbing
2
Komsomolská stěna
Through the center of the wall into a wide crack and to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Děravá hlava
From the space between the massif and the wall n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Děravá hlava
To the right of the original route briefly up the wall n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Děravá hlava
In the plateau wall directly over a large overhang n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Děravá hlava
Along the left edge from the north to K and n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Děravá hlava
From the large ledge left and along the edge n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Děravá hlava
Up the wall to the left of the edge n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Děravá hlava
Up the valley chimney to K and then diagonally left up the wall n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Stožec
Along the left valley edge to K, right to the crack and then up it n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Stožec
Up the left chimney in the west wall n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Stožec
Up the right chimney of the west wall to the ledge, right to the 2nd K of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stožec
From the left part of the southwest wall via a crack and a small chimney to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Stožec
Up the middle of the SW wall over 3 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kopýtko
Up the short plateau wall n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Kopýtko
To the right in the plateau wall via a crack to K and n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kopýtko
Along the northern edge over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Kopýtko
Via the south edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Stožec
From the edge traverse left to K and up the wall n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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