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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Kopýtko
Via the south edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Kopýtko
Up the short plateau wall n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Kopýtko
Via the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Orlí hnízdo střední vrchol
By overhang from the "Northern Peak" to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Orlí hnízdo střední vrchol
Through a deep chimney in the lower wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Orlí hnízdo střední vrchol
Through the right corner in the east face to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Orlí hnízdo střední vrchol
In the lower wall via a crack to 1. K, then further via the chimney over 2. K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Orlí hnízdo střední vrchol
Via a short crack from the fore-rock and a small wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Orlí hnízdo střední vrchol
Along the edge to the left of the corner to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Orlí hnízdo střední vrchol
From the saddle between the "Main" and "Middle Peak" (secured), traverse into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Orlí hnízdo střední vrchol
From the start of the "Old Way" to the "Main Peak", traverse through the chimney into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Orlí hnízdo střední vrchol
From the lower inner area through the chimney to K. Via a wide crack to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Orlí hnízdo střední vrchol
Completely to the left via a traverse to the fore-rock and a small wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Orlí hnízdo střední vrchol
Through the left corner in the east face to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Orlí hnízdo hlavní vrchol
Through the center of the South face to 1st K. Right and up to 2nd K and up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Orlí hnízdo hlavní vrchol
From the "Middle Peak" by overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Orlí hnízdo střední vrchol
To the left of the "Normal Way" through the middle of the overgrown east face to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Orlí hnízdo hlavní vrchol
In the right part of the valley face via an overhanging pillar over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Orlí hnízdo hlavní vrchol
By jumping from the "Victory Column" to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Orlí hnízdo střední vrchol
From the massif, descend around the southeast edge of the "Northern Peak" to the "Normal… Rock Climbing
2
Orlí hnízdo střední vrchol
Via the "Old Way" to the area between the "Victory Column" and the "Middle Peak", from… Rock Climbing
3
Orlí hnízdo hlavní vrchol
In the right lower wall through the chimney directly to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Orlí hnízdo hlavní vrchol
From the fore-peak or a wedged block (belayed) left over the edge briefly down to a ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Orlí hnízdo hlavní vrchol
From the balcony in the south face, via a corner above the bivouac and left up the face… Rock Climbing
1
Orlí hnízdo hlavní vrchol
From the saddle via a short wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Orlí hnízdo severní vrchol
Along the north edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Orlí hnízdo hlavní vrchol
Crawl under the boulder directly into the chimney and through its interior to the saddle… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Orlí hnízdo hlavní vrchol
From the chimney between the tower and M, via a corner under the overhang, left past the… Rock Climbing
2
Orlí hnízdo hlavní vrchol
Through the upper chimney and higher up the face to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Orlí hnízdo hlavní vrchol
From the space via a short crack to the ledge to K. Up the face along the northeast edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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