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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Skála 39. srazu
From the east behind the small pillar by the gully to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Skála 39. srazu
By the right east crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Skála 39. srazu
By the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Skála 39. srazu
In the left part of the south wall to the ledge to the 1st K, diagonally right up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Skála 39. srazu
From an elevated spot on the right in the south wall along the left edge over K to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Roklická stěna
From the 2nd K traverse approximately 3 m left and straight up along the falcon-like… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jubilejní stěna
Through the middle of the left half of the wall over the 2nd K to the balcony. By the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Jubilejní stěna
Left in the west wall by an overhanging chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Roklická stěna
Through the middle of the valley wall by a crack to K. Further along the widening crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Roklická stěna
Completely left along the edge of the pillar to K, directly onto the balcony, left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Roklická stěna
In the left part of the valley wall to the 1st K, briefly left, then again right and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Roklická stěna
In the right part of the south wall completely in the corner upwards, left to the crack… Rock Climbing
6
Zlatá kaple
In the left part along the smooth edge to the 1st K, further to the ledge to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zlatá kaple
Along the edge to K and up the wall to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jubilejní stěna
In the right half of the wall via a crack to the 1st K. Over the ledge up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Jubilejní stěna
Right in the western wall to the ring. Left into the chimney and to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zlatá kaple
By hand crack under the roof to K and via an overhanging small crack to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Zlatá kaple
By a wide crack to the terrace. Rock Climbing
2
Dobrý bratr
By crack to the balcony and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Dobrý bratr
In the right part of the southern wall via a small overhang to the edge and along it to… Rock Climbing
5
Dobrý bratr
By an oblique crack in the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Dobrý bratr
Along the right upper edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Dobrý bratr
Left of the western edge, right to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Dobrý bratr
Left of the upper edge up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Dobrý bratr
Through the left part of the southern wall to the 1st K, upwards and right to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Dobrý bratr
By crack in the right part of the southern wall to the balcony and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Zlý bratr
Along the northern edge, later right into the NW wall and along the crack to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zlý bratr
Left of the start of the original route via a corner crack to K. and by the original… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Zlý bratr
From the fore-summit along the southern edge to the 1st and 2nd K, traverse left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Zlý bratr
From the 2nd K of the original route to the 2nd K of the Southern Crack. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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