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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
9
Sušická věž
Up the face directly to the 2nd bolt of the "Valley Route" and further to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sušická věž
Start left of the "Western Route", from the right base of the west face to the 1st bolt,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Sušická věž
Up the SW edge under the overhang, left to the start of the crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Sušická věž
From the massif, an overhang into the south face and over small hourglasses (rock… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sušická věž
In the left part of the west face to the 1st bolt. Right up to the 2nd bolt and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Sušická věž
From the massif, an overhang onto the SE edge and left to the bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sušická věž
Up the left part of the south face to the bolt, traverse left and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Karlův kámen
From the massif about 8 m down, jump to the platform in the NE face and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Karlův kámen
Shortly along the "Valley route" to a small balcony at the start of the chimney. Left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Karlův kámen
From the massif rappel into the middle of the plateau face and to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Karlův kámen
Between the "Liberec Tower" and the tower upwards, traverse into the inner chimney and to… Rock Climbing
?
Karlův kámen
From the "Liberec Tower" jump to a overgrown balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Karlův kámen
Through the middle of the valley face by an indistinct overhanging crack and by the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Karlův kámen
By rappelling to the abseil K and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Karlův kámen
From "Veleop" jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Karlův kámen
In the valley face to the right of the "Valley route" to the hourglass and along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Karlův kámen
In the south face from the right diagonally upwards through a hole onto a mossy shelf.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Karlův kámen
From the SE by a traverse between the tower edge and Veleop to K. By traverse and higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Karlův kámen
From K traverse left to the edge and along it over the balcony to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Karlův kámen
In the right part of the south face upwards, traverse left to the balcony and by the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Karlův kámen
Along the SW edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Karlův kámen
From the center of the wall right into the "Valley route" onto a small balcony. Rock Climbing
7
Veleop
From the corner between M and the tower, up the overhanging wall to the bolt and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Veleop
In the gorge between M and the tower, through the chimney and crack to the balcony to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Veleop
From the bolt directly along the north edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Karlův kámen
Through the chimney between M and the tower from the east to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Veleop
In the gorge between M and the tower, by opposition to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Veleop
From the massif, bypass to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Karlův kámen
In the left part of the chimney between M and the tower upwards and later by the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Veleop
Up the center of the valley wall to the bolt. Up the wall, higher left to the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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