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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Veleop
By traversing to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Veleop
From the massif descend to the small balcony, traverse and briefly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Panský dvůr
Up the wall left of "Friendship Route" to the 1st bolt and 2nd bolt. From there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Panský dvůr
Up the mighty wall to the right of "Veleop" over 2 bolts into the gully notch and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Panský dvůr
Through a wide crack in the left part of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Veleop
In the valley wall, right into the chimney and through it between M and the tower to the… Rock Climbing
3
Veleop
Through the chimney in the corner on the plateau side to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Veleop
Along the right valley edge over 4 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Panský dvůr
Left of the "Wide Crack" up the wall to the gully and through it into the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Panský dvůr
Through a wide crack to the left of the route "Rasovina" to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Panský dvůr
Through the gully to its end, then left along the wall to the bolt, up into a wide crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Panský dvůr
Via a prominent hand crack to the small balcony and a narrow overhanging crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Panský dvůr
Through a wide crack diagonally left, halfway right to the bolt and directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Panský dvůr
Up the pillar between the routes "Predel" and "Main Crack" to the bolt and through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Panský dvůr
Through the corner and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Jakubíček
Along the plateau wall left onto a sloping ledge and right n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Jakubíček
Under the overhang traverse right and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Jakubíček
Along the NW edge to the middle of the tower, under the overhang left to the edge and… Rock Climbing
2
Jakubíček
Along the NE edge below the summit and left n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Jakubíček
Directly up the NW wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Jakubíček
Up the SW wall over the bulges until below the last steep section, traverse right and n.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Stěna jubilantů
In the left part of the wall to 1st K, further to 2nd K, and from there left to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna jubilantů
Through the chimney in the middle of the wall to the pillar to 2nd K of the "Hiltistop"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna jubilantů
In the left part of the wall over the overhang to 1st K, from the right via a crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna jubilantů
In the left side wall by a chimney/stemming to 1st K, further over ironware (loop) to 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Stěna jubilantů
In the left part of the wall to 1st K, further to 2nd K, and from there to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna jubilantů
Right part of the wall over 2 K to the ledge and from there left to Sl. K and n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna jubilantů
To the right of the chimney via a small overhang over 1st K to the crack and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Stěna jubilantů
Middle of the wall through the chimney then right to Sl. K and n.t. Rock Climbing
6
Beznožka
In the left part of the southwest wall along the crack to 1st K, left onto the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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