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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Beznožka
To the right of "Center Route" to K and from the left n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Beznožka
In the right part of the Southwest face from the ledge along the small pillar and higher… Rock Climbing
7
Beznožka
In the middle of the left part of the southwest wall to K and from the right n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Beznožka
In the left part of the southwest wall, via the buttress and wall to 1st K, upwards to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Beznožka
In the right part of the southwest wall, through a crack into the chimney and up it n.t. Rock Climbing
7
Stěna padesátniků
Through the middle of the northwest face along the cracks to K, up into the indentation… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Stěna padesátniků
Along the left edge of the east face (hours) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Stěna padesátniků
Approach from the tree to the middle of the east face to 1st K. Along the crack and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Stěna padesátniků
Up the honeycomb wall along the left edge of the northwest face over 2 K to Sl. K and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Stěna padesátniků
Through the crack in the valley corner to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Větrná díra
Via the valley route to 1st K, left to 2nd K, up the face to 3rd K, later by notch and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Větrná díra
Briefly up the SW edge and traverse left to K. Left onto the edge (loop), then through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Větrná díra
Left of the NW edge up the face over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Větrná díra
Left of the "Old Route" straight up the face over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Hodný pohodný
Along the left valley edge over 2 K into the crack, up to the balcony (sling), back left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Hodný pohodný
Right valley chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Věž Zdeňka Buriana
Valley chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Věž Eduarda Štorcha
North crack chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Věž Zdeňka Buriana
Jump from the massif to the main peak. Rock Climbing
3
Věž Zdeňka Buriana
From the south, chimney under the wedged boulder and further n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Neznámá jehla
Up the valley face diagonally right below the overhanging crack to the bolt and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Neznámá jehla
Left in the valley side via the gully higher up and right via the overhanging crack to… Rock Climbing
6
Neznámá jehla
Up the face to the bolt and directly over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Neznámá jehla
In the plateau face via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Advokát
From the "Front Blocks" descend via the corner of the "Old Route" to the balcony and… Rock Climbing
7
Advokát
Up the valley edge to the step to the bolt. Over the overhang and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Advokát
Up the face diagonally right to the shelf and up the face along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Neznámá jehla
Up the right valley edge to the ledge and to the bolt, directly up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Přední bloky
Chimneying between the tower and "The Advocate" to the 1st bolt, up the face right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Přední bloky
Up the middle of the valley face to the 1st bolt of the Black Wall route, then right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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