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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7-/7
Přední bloky
Up the middle of the valley face to the 1st bolt of the Black Wall route, then right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Advokát
From the saddle between the Front Blocks and the tower, up the face to the ledge and to… Rock Climbing
7
Přední bloky
Up the middle of the valley face to the bolt, traverse left upwards, via the gully to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Přední bloky
Up the middle of the west face via the bolt to the chimney and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Přední bloky
From the west between the edge of the tower and the wall of the Massif by stemming to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Přední bloky
From the fore-summit/pinnacle step across onto the SE edge, up and left to the bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Přední bloky
From the bolt directly up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Přední bloky
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Přední bloky
Between the Massif and the right edge in the SW wall of the tower by stemming and up the… Rock Climbing
?
Zadní bloky
In the upper Massif descend 3 m, step across to the platform in the right part of the SE… Rock Climbing
1
Zadní bloky
Step across from the summit of the massif to the platform (without descent) and by the… Rock Climbing
3
Zadní bloky
Through the wide chimney between the Massif and the tower from SE, higher up the crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Zadní bloky
Up the dihedral and crack in the NW wall to the ledge to the bolt and through the fissure… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Zadní bloky
From the SW edge traverse left into the crack and to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Zadní bloky
From the chimney traverse right, through the gully to the balcony to the bolt and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zadní bloky
From SW into the chimney and by stemming between the Massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Zadní bloky
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Zadní bloky
Through the middle of the NW wall along the cracks diagonally right and through a wide… Rock Climbing
3
Slunečnice
From the massif descend to the saddle, and by the "Old Route" to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Slunečnice
Directly up the valley wall over 3 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Zadní bloky
Start as for the "Old Route", then through the chimney along the SW edge and higher up… Rock Climbing
2
Slunečnice
Through the chimney in the valley wall to the saddle and by the "Old Route" to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Slunečnice
Through the middle of the upper (SE) wall, higher over the overhang and to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Slunečnice
Through the crack in the right part of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Slunečnice
From the saddle directly along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Slunečnice
From the plateau side, through the chimney to the saddle. Traverse along the ledge to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Lipák
In the south face, start from the balcony to K and then along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Lipák
In the north face, along the crack (loop) to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Lipák
In the north face, in the left part, to K and further to K of the "Tyjátr" route and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Lipák
Through a short valley chimney to the balcony and up the north face over 2 K to the top. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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