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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Karkov
By the plateau route n. v. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Karel Hynek Mácha
Overhang over 2 rings, further to 3 rings and from the right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Ódin
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
8
Ódin
In the left part of the south wall over 3 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Ódin
By the valley chimney between the tower and the massif to K. and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Ódin
Valley edge over 3 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Generál
Through the middle of the valley face over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jánská věž
Directly up the wall to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jánská věž
Up the plateau face to K and further to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Jánská věž
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Jánská věž
From the fore-rock near the NE edge straight up, then traverse left into the middle of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Jánská věž
Along the blunt SW edge from the right to the small balcony (sling), then straight along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jánská věž
From the fore-rock along the NE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Jánská věž
Along the valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Jánská věž
From the rock right along the SE edge, then traverse right and up the east face to the… Rock Climbing
6
Jánská věž
Through the middle of the valley (east) face via the circle and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jánská věž
In the plateau face, traverse from left to K, from there diagonally up and right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Zbrojmistr
In the left part of the north face over 3K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Zbrojmistr
Through the Valley Crack in the right part of the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zbrojmistr
Completely to the left via the slab and overhanging chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zbrojmistr
Through the Plateau Chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Kavčí věž
From 'Mouse Tower' to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kavčí věž
In the left part of the valley wall briefly via the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kavčí věž
In the right part of the east face via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kavčí věž
Through the chimney between the towers to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Kavčí věž
Via the crack in the middle of the east face to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kavčí věž
To the right of 'Plateau Crack' via two small cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kavčí věž
Traverse from the massif to the tower. Rock Climbing
3
Kavčí věž
Through the wide chimney between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kavčí věž
Via the wall to a sloping shelf and through the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing

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