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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Kavčí věž
To the right in the south face via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Myší věž
Then, by chimney, to the valley wall and to the summit boulder. Rock Climbing
2
Kavčí věž
Through the chimney between M and the tower from the east to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kavčí věž
Through the middle of the south face to K, via the small ridge to the left, to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Myší věž
Through the chimney between the towers to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Myší věž
Jump from 'Kavčí Tower' to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kavčí věž
Start left of the rounded edge onto a sloping shelf, traverse right to K and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Myší věž
Along the left valley edge upwards and left over the sub-summit overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Kavčí věž
From K via the right crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Myší věž
Traverse from 'Kavčí Tower' to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Myší věž
Through the middle of the valley face into a hole to K. Over the rounded belly into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Myší věž
Access via the "Terraced Route" from the ledge up a smooth wall to the pre-summit and to… Rock Climbing
4
Myší věž
Through the middle of the plateau face to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Myší věž
Left of the "Old Route", along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Myší věž
From SW in the left part of the wall, up a small wall to a wide bench and to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Podstavec
In the right part of the east face through a crack over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Podstavec
Through the middle of the north face over 4 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Podstavec
Through the middle of the east face over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Podstavec
Through the right part of the north face over 4 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kuňka
Up the north face via 2 K. to a ledge, then via a crack and the middle of the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kuňka
Up the face left of the valley chimney via K. and further up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kuňka
Through the right part of the valley face over a distinct projection further up. Rock Climbing
2
Kuňka
Up the plateau chimney and higher up the face further up. Rock Climbing
3
Kuňka
Through the chimney from the valley further up. Rock Climbing
2
Kuňka
Via the NE ridge and further left further up. Rock Climbing
2
Kuňka
From the saddle traverse right into the valley face and further up. Rock Climbing
1
Kuňka
From the massif further up. Rock Climbing
7
Welzenbachova věž
From the 1st K along the northeast ridge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Welzenbachova věž
Opposition (stemming) between the Massif and the tower right to the NE edge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Welzenbachova věž
From the highest point M Rezavá, jump down to the top. Rock Climbing

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