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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Welzenbachova věž
Opposition (stemming) between the Massif and the tower right to the NE edge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Welzenbachova věž
From the ring of the original route via opposition (stemming) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Welzenbachova věž
From the block in the north face to the 1st and 2nd ring along the edge and right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Welzenbachova věž
To the left of the left plateau (SE) edge, up the wall to the overhanging small pillar,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Welzenbachova věž
Along the SW edge to the 1st ring, diagonally right to the 2nd ring and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Stěna nad křižovatkou
Grooves in the left part of the NW wall to the balcony to the bolt (K) of the Sokolík… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna nad křižovatkou
Middle of the valley wall of the wedged tower over 1st bolt (K) to its summit. Left up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna nad křižovatkou
Up the chimney to the wedged tower, climb over and up the edge over the bolt (K) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Stěna nad křižovatkou
Up the chimney to the wedged tower, climb over and up the right chimney to the top (n.t.). Rock Climbing
7
Stěna nad křižovatkou
From the SW edge, traverse left on the wall to 1st bolt (K). Right onto the edge over 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna nad křižovatkou
NW edge to the balcony to the bolt (K), up the wall into the crack and up it to the top … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna nad křižovatkou
Grooves in the left part of the NW wall to the balcony to the bolt (K), further left up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Stěna nad křižovatkou
Start in the middle of the wall to the bolt (K), then over 2 bolts (K) of the original… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna nad křižovatkou
By the valley chimney to the top (n.t.) Rock Climbing
7
Stěna nad křižovatkou
Up the chimney to the wedged tower, traverse the ledge right to the bolt (K) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna nad křižovatkou
Up the chimney 3m to a small balcony, slightly left into the wall and 1st bolt (K),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Stěna nad křižovatkou
By the broken chimney in the large corner to the top (n.t.). Rock Climbing
8
Stěna nad křižovatkou
Start in the middle of the south face over the overhang, then slightly right to 1st bolt … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Stěna nad křižovatkou
Right part of the wall to 1st bolt (K), then a short groove under the overhang, over it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Stěna nad křižovatkou
Middle of the side wall over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Stěna nad křižovatkou
Via a side corner to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Stěna nad křižovatkou
Jump from the side massif. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Stěna nad křižovatkou
In the right part of the valley wall over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zadní průrva
In the middle part of the massif, a crack chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zadní průrva
Via the first chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Zadní průrva
In the upper part of the massif, a crack chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zadní průrva
In the upper part of the massif, via the first crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Loubikámen
Through the right part of the north face via 3 rings to the top. (3) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Loubikámen
Along the left edge of the north face via 3 rings to the top. (4) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Loubikámen
Through the plateau chimney to the top. Rock Climbing

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