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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Šikmá věž
Via the edge to the left of the "Old Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Šikmá věž
From the saddle, via the overhanging NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Golem
In the right part of the upper wall via the corner crack to the balcony and up the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Golem
Via the rounded SW edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Golem
Via the SW inner chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Golem
Via the stemming chimney to K and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Golem
In the left part of the valley wall via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Golem
In the left part of the upper wall, up the overhanging east edge to the fore-summit and… Rock Climbing
2
Golem
Via the SW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Golem
Via the North edge to the balcony and further up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Golem
From the massif, traverse to the ledge. (right of the rappel point) Rock Climbing
4
Vosí hnízdo
Up the left edge and higher up the face to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Vosí hnízdo
Middle of the plateau face to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Golem
Start in the left part of the upper wall, by stemming between M and the tower to the left… Rock Climbing
7
Vosí hnízdo
From the gully up the south face to the crack, up it to the pulpit/stand to the piton and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Golem
Up the left crack to the small balcony and via the "Old Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Golem
From the upper side, right between the peaks and up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Vosí hnízdo
Through the straddling chimney between the towers to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Vosí hnízdo
From Golem descend to the ledge and step across to the edge. Easily to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Golem
Up the middle crack on the upper side to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Rohová stěna
Through the left corner via 2 pitons to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Vosí hnízdo
On the plateau side to the right and up the face to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Rohová stěna
Along the curved west edge to the piton, up and left into the crack and up it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Rohová stěna
Through the chimney to the block in the large corner, briefly straddling to the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Rohová stěna
Along the small edge and crack to the 1st piton, onto the ledge to the 2nd piton and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Rohová stěna
In the left part of the valley face via 4 pitons to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Rohová stěna
Through the corner and chimney into the cave and to the terrace. Rock Climbing
6
Jediná
Along the NE face to the right to the crack, then left and up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Stěna v Loubí
On the left edge of the wall through a crack n.t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Loupák
Center of the valley wall over 3K and through a groove n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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