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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Jediná
Left in the valley face along an indistinct edge to the piton, up to the ledge, right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jediná
Left in the south face, traverse left to the edge to the piton, into the valley face and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Loupák
Center of the valley wall over 3K and through a groove n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Stěna v Loubí
On the left edge of the wall through a crack n.t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Jediná
Upland edge to highest point. Rock Climbing
9
Stěna v Loubí
In the left part of the wall up the gully and the wall over 4K n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna v Loubí
Center of the wall along the small cracks over 3 K n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna v Loubí
Along the edge, to the left of the "Big Corner" to the pulpit and to 1st K, up the gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna v Loubí
On the right edge of the wall under the roof, left and up the wall over 2 K n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna u křižovatky
Up the pillar to K, then further up left past the edge and n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna v Loubí
Big corner to 1st and 2nd K and up the wall over 3rd K n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Stěna u křižovatky
Start briefly through a crack, then right into the wall and up it over 4 K n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Stěna u křižovatky
Up the wall to 1st K of the route "And it will get worse", diagonally right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Stěna u křižovatky
From 1st K of "Route via the fish" directly up the wall above the notch and diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
4
Stěna u křižovatky
Through the chimney n.t. Rock Climbing
4
Stěna u křižovatky
Through the chimney n.t. Rock Climbing
4
Stěna u křižovatky
Up over wedged boulders and through the right chimney n.t. Rock Climbing
6
Stěna u křižovatky
Up the wall over 4 K to the rappel K n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna u křižovatky
Over 2 K n.t. via the widening chimney. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Náplavka
In the left part of the wall over 3 bolts tightly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Stěna u křižovatky
Center of the wall in the right block of the valley wall, directly over the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Stěna u křižovatky
Edge and wall over K and directly n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Stěna u křižovatky
In the left part of the valley wall along the crack to 1st K. Traverse right to 2nd K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Stěna u křižovatky
Up the chimney in the right part of the wall tightly to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Stěna u křižovatky
Corner to the left of the chimney under the overhang and to 1st K, wall across 2nd K n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Stěna u křižovatky
Wall across 2 rings n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Stěna u křižovatky
From the south through the chimney n.t. Rock Climbing
6
Náplavka
In the right part of the wall over 3 bolts and left to the 4th bolt of the route "Burn… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Masiv ROH
Up the chimney tightly to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Loubák
From the chimney onto the valley edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing

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