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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Loubák
Over the overhang from M to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Loubák
From the massif, a step/jump traverse to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Loubák
Up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Loubák
From the chimney onto the valley edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Masiv ROH
Up the chimney tightly to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Důvěrníček
Start right behind the edge, diagonally onto the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Masiv ROH
Start through the overhanging corner from the right over the overhang, through the corner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Masiv ROH
Up the wall left of the "Gardener's Crack" to the 1st bolt, over the overhang to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Masiv ROH
Up the small crack to the 1st bolt, then the overhanging crack to the 2nd bolt, from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Masiv ROH
Up the crack tightly to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Masiv ROH
Up the wall to the 1st bolt on the flake, up the wall to the 2nd bolt and to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Masiv ROH
Up the chimney and higher through the corner tightly to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Masiv ROH
Up the wall into the corner, through it to the bolt and tightly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Důvěrníček
Up the left valley edge over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Dražej
From the 2nd bolt of the route "Asi zdražej" directly over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Quo vadis
Through the left part of the valley wall over the bolt to the top.
3
Quo vadis
Through the middle of the plateau route, left to the small balcony and to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Dražej
Up the valley wall over 2 bolts to the ledge, left to the edge, higher to the bolt of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Quo vadis
In the right part of the plateau wall, right into a smooth small wall and up it to the… Rock Climbing
5
Quo vadis
In the left part of the plateau wall onto the block, laybacking up, mantle into the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Dražej
From the plateau side below the rappel to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Kořínek
From the boulder via rounded edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Dražej
From the left to the balcony in the East face, SE edge over pitons to the piton and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Kořínek
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Kořínek
Crack in the valley wall to the piton of the Southwest Route. Along the ledge traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kořínek
From the SW via overhanging wall to the balcony, left along the edge to the ledge (piton)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kořínek
From the boulder on the uphill side to the balcony in the South face to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Kořínek
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Kořínek
Uphill wall into the hollow and to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Dražejovská perla
Through the chimney between M and the tower, higher up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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