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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Rokytník
In the upper wall, left of the route „Pískovna“ (Sand Pit), along the crack over the… Rock Climbing
3
Rokytník
On the upper side, left of the "Old Route", via a slanted gash to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rokytník
2 m right of the chimney of the "Old Route" straight up the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Bobeš
From NW diagonally right into the small cave and via the original route to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Malý knoflík
Up the wall below the abseil point to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Bobeš
Through the center of the upper (S) wall to the small cave and left below the abseil… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Onibaba
In the right part of the south wall along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
4
Bobeš
Along the SW edge to the small cave (at the clock/piton) and right to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Onibaba
In the left part of the S wall to the balcony and directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Onibaba
From the block on the upper side, an overhang and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Klučenská věž
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Klučenská věž
Left part of the valley wall over the 1st K to the ledge. Right over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Klučenská věž
Through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Malá liška
Center of the W wall directly into the hole (large hour) and right to the bulge. Over 2… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Soumračná věž
Through the crack in the middle of the plateau wall to the saddle and n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Soumračná věž
From the massif from S via jump n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Soumračná věž
To the right of the crack in the middle of the plateau wall through the chimney between M… Rock Climbing
1
Syrová věž
From the massif from the west n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Soumračná věž
From the terrace on the E side of the tower through the notch n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Syrová věž
Through the chimney in the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Štěpánská věž
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Štěpánská věž
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Radschin
Through the crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Radschin
Through the gully in the south wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Radschin
Via the curved SW wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Radschin
Via the NE crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Postní věž
Through the crack onto the ledge, via the curved edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Poustevnice
From the north along the ledge into the overgrown valley wall and up it n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Poustevnice
Briefly descending from the massif and jumping n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Poustevnice
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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