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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Postní věž
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Postní věž
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Poustevnice
Wall below the rappel n. v. (unsecured) Rock Climbing
5
Strážce stěny
Wide divergence between the eastern massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Strážce stěny
Up the chimney from the South to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Strážce stěny
Through the chimney from the NE to the small tower on the valley wall, traverse into the… Rock Climbing
6
Strážce stěny
Via a crack in the valley (West) wall under the overhang, over the overhang to the anchor… Rock Climbing
?
Malý strážce
From the massif, descend through a narrow chimney to the balcony and then traverse to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Strážce stěny
From the East massif to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Strážce stěny
Through the chimney between M and the tower from the NE to its end, then traverse to the… Rock Climbing
2
Strážce stěny
From the massif from the North, traverse to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Strážce stěny
Up the chimney in the valley (North) wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Strážce stěny
Up the wall left to the SW edge and over the anchor to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Malý strážce
From the valley side up the steps into the chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Malý strážce
Up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mechová (2. Bettlerkind)
Along the edge in the plateau wall along a small crack to the ledge, left up the wall to… Rock Climbing
5
Třetí dítě žebráků
Up the wall below the abseil point to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mechová (2. Bettlerkind)
Directly from the ledge below the abseil point to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Třetí dítě žebráků
Through the chimney between the towers, then traverse and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Dvojče (Bettlerkönig)
Through the chimney in the SE wall to the hole, right into the crack and up to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Dvojče (Bettlerkönig)
Along the NE edge via a crack to the balcony to the anchor and directly up the East wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dvojče (Bettlerkönig)
In the left part of the North wall of the West tower via a small crack under the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Dvojče (Bettlerkönig)
Through the chimney at the South edge into the widening, right along the ledge into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Dvojče (Bettlerkönig)
From the base of the NE edge along the ledge left into the valley wall and left upwards… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jochanán
Along the uphill wall into the notch (fixed anchors), further to K, right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šnokhouska (1. Bettlerkind)
Along the right part of the uphill wall to K. Left over the hole behind the edge and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Jochanán
Along the narrow East wall below the overhang, over it to K and upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Šnokhouska (1. Bettlerkind)
Traverse from the "Twin" to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Šnokhouska (1. Bettlerkind)
From the right or left onto the ledge in the valley wall. Left to the 1st anchor,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Šnokhouska (1. Bettlerkind)
Via a crack in the SE edge to the ledge and right upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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