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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Dražejovská perla
Through the chimney between M and the tower, higher up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Komisař
Wall along the uphill edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Dražejovská perla
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Dražejovská perla
Through the chimney, higher traverse right to the edge to the 2nd piton of the Volební… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Dražejovská perla
Crack in the North face to the ledge to the 1st piton. Left (small pitons) and up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Dražejovská perla
Wall left of the NW edge to the right to the piton. Overhanging crack and higher along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Dražejovská perla
From the ledge in the SW face via small wall to the balcony in the valley face (pitons),… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Dražejovská perla
Along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Komisař
Through the chimney from the uphill (East) side to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Dražejovská věž
Left part of the North face directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Komisař
From the south from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Komisař
From the southwest via chimney along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Komisař
Northwest edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Dražejovská věž
Southeast edge to the pitons (hodiny), left and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Komisař
Valley wall to the piton and slightly right to the top.
4
Komisař
Uphill edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Dražejovská věž
East wall via gully to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Dražejovský hrot
Along the left upper edge to the top.
4
Šumlíř
Through the right crack in the W wall (behind the pine tree) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Dražejovský hrot
Along the left valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Šumlíř
In the left part of the valley wall, left upwards to the edge (at the clock/piton),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Dražejovská věž
Up the north wall to the right to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Dražejovský hrot
Up the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Rokytník
Through the center of the W wall between the "Old Route" and the "West Route" to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Šumlíř
Through the right part of the upper wall near the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rokytník
Through a slanted gash in the right part of the W wall (at the clock/piton) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rokytník
Completely to the right in the valley wall via a gash, higher up through the chimney of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rokytník
In the upper wall, left of the route „Pískovna“ (Sand Pit), along the crack over the… Rock Climbing
3
Rokytník
On the upper side, left of the "Old Route", via a slanted gash to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bobeš
Through the center of the south wall via the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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