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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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6
Mrkvous
Traverse in the S wall along the ledge to the right to the edge towards K and up it n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Mrkvous
Through the gully to the right of the route "Bottle Redemption" n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Perun
North face over two holes (hourglass) to K. Directly upwards and higher from the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Perun
From the valley, through the corner into the chimney and up to the shelf. Traverse left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Perun
From the massif, a jump n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Dobřeňská věž
From the right part of M, traverse to the edge of the tower. Rock Climbing
4
Perun
From the upper side through the chimney to the shelf and the wall below the abseil, n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Dobřeňská věž
By the west wall directly over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Perun
From M, a jump to the shelf and "Normal way" n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Dobřeňská věž
By the left part of the W wall along the edge to K and further to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Dobřeňská věž
Left up through the plateau chimney, left to the edge and along it over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Žebrák
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zbloudilec
By wall below the rappel to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Zbloudilec
In the north wall along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Žebrák
By the left plateau edge Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4
Zbloudilec
Along the ledge in the S wall, traverse right, up through the chimney between M and the… Rock Climbing
3
Žebrák
By the west edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Zbloudilec
From the plateau side, traverse left along the ledge of the S wall to the NE (valley)… Rock Climbing
3
Strážce bludiště
From the W by crack and chimney to the pre-summit, by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Strážce bludiště
By the crack of the "Normal Route" 2m, traverse right by gulley to the terrace to K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Strážce bludiště
Through the middle of the S wall by rib, crack and chimney to the pre-summit, by wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Strážce bludiště
From the massif, traverse to the pre-summit, by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Strážce bludiště
From the chimney of the "Normal Route", traverse into the valley wall to K and left by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Strážce bludiště
Start at the "Normal Route", traverse left to K, by edge to the pre-summit, by wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Výroční věž
By the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Výroční věž
From the massif, descent and traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Výroční věž
From the massif, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Výroční věž
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Výroční věž
By the right part of the overhanging plateau wall to an overhanging ledge and over K to… Rock Climbing
7
Výroční věž
Up the East face over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing

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