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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Dobro a zlo
By opposition between the tower and "Baloun" to the ledge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dobro a zlo
Through the plateau chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Dobro a zlo
Through the wide chimney between "Good and Evil" and "Baloun" over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Dobro a zlo
From the summit of "Baloun" a jump to the NE summit. Rock Climbing
2
Dobro a zlo
From the summit of "Baloun" a jump to the SW summit. Rock Climbing
7
Dobro a zlo
Through the chimney in the valley wall to the ledge to the 1st bolt. Traverse left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Dobro a zlo
Via the "Křemenáčová Way" to the 1st bolt. Directly to the bolt, up into the hole … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Dobro a zlo
Start via the chimney and right onto the pulpit to the 1st K, along the edge to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Dobro a zlo
Through the valley chimney and right onto the ledge, diagonally right to the 1st K, into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Dobro a zlo
Through the west wall to K and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Dobro a zlo
In the right part of the valley wall via the chimney to the 1st K, further over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Dobro a zlo
Directly up the wall below the abseil point to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dobro a zlo
Through the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Dobro a zlo
From the valley side along the edge over the 1st K to the 2nd and 3rd K of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Dobro a zlo
Along the NW edge to the 1st and 2nd K, left to the pulpit and over the 3rd K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Sova
Through the east wall to the ledge, traverse left to the W crack and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Sova
From the right to the SE edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Sova
Jump from the fore-summit of the "Fairy Tale Tower" to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Sova
Through the valley wall over 4 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Sova
Through the east wall to the ledge, traverse right under the crack and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sova
From the corner right along the ledge to the 1st K, further right up to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pohádková věž
In the right part of the plateau wall through a hollow into holes, a gully to the fore… Rock Climbing
7
Pohádková věž
From the gorge between "Sova" and "Pohádková věž" traverse right along the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pohádková věž
Along the right part of the valley wall via 5 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Pohádková věž
From the summit of "Vulture" (Supík) an overhang and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Pohádková věž
Through the center of the valley wall over 7 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pohádková věž
From the valley through two chimneys over K to the fore-summit and by the "Normal Route"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pohádková věž
Through the valley wall of the E peak over 4 K to the summit. By the "Normal Route" to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Pohádková věž
Start through the left valley chimney, later right to the 1st K. Up the wall via the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Pohádková věž
From the valley via a chimney over two overhangs to the saddle between the peak and the… Rock Climbing

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