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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7-/7
Hubený hrabě
From the plateau side over 2 bolts/rings along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Oplatky
In the right part of the uphill wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Hubený hrabě
From the balcony on the E edge, left into the wall and up to the 1st ring, right onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Oplatky
Up the West wall into the crack and via it (loops) over the hour-glass to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Zbrojnoš
From the massif, a jump/step under the summit head. Rock Climbing
4
Bukanýr
Up the crack in the S wall below the overhang, left to the balcony and up the chimney to… Rock Climbing
5
Bukanýr
Up the West wall via the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Zbrojnoš
Up the uphill edge to the fore-rock and up the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Bukanýr
Up the valley wall below the overhang, over it and directly up the wall to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing
6
Bukanýr
From E from the gully left up the wall to the 1st ring. Left past the edge to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Bukanýr
Up the crack in the N wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Bukanýr
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Bukanýr
Through the chimney between M and the tower to a ledge in M, then traverse and up the… Rock Climbing
6
Heliova brána
From W, by bridging between the tower and the fore-rock to the pre-summit and via the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Heliova brána
From the S, from the uphill side to the fore-rock and with a swing to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Heliova brána
Up the left part of the valley wall via 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Heliova brána
Up the NW overhanging edge via 2 rings and from the left to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Lokaj
From the left onto the S edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Dělnická věž
By traversing from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Lokaj
Up the SW wall and right to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Dělnická věž
Through the chimney between the Massif and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dělnická věž
By the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Radim
Through the southern chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Radim
Through the right part of the North wall via a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Radim
In the northern corner via the right crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Radim
Via the wall left of the "Northern Corner" to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Radim
In the northern corner via the left chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Alp
In the massif near the plateau edge diagonally right and by stemming to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Alp
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Alp
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing

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