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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Chobotnice
Through the middle of the valley wall to the window (large hour-glass, also traversable… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7
Marunka
Follow the route 'The Key is Fear' to the hole, then left behind the edge to the 1st K … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Křeček
Along the right upper edge up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Marunka
From the northwest, right behind the edge onto a ledge (with hourglasses/chokestones) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Marunka
Follow the route 'The Key is Fear' into the southeast face, then right and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Křeček
From the center of the valley wall diagonally left to the 1st K (anchor/ring), left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Křeček
Through the center of the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Křeček
Up the wall near the southeast edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Prosincová
Up the north face over 2 K (anchors/rings) to the buttress, onto its top and directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Prosincová
Up the 'Upper Route' crack for 4 m, traverse right behind the edge to a splinter (with a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Prosincová
From the first hole of the 'Tunnel Route' tunnel, right and up the south face over 2 K … Rock Climbing
6
Prosincová
From the K (anchor/ring) of the original route directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Prosincová
From the second hole of the 'Tunnel Route' tunnel, right into a small crack and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Prosincová
Through the left part of the upper wall into a hole, then traverse into the valley wall,… Rock Climbing
4
Prosincová
From the west edge, right along a small wall to the chimney and through it over the… Rock Climbing
5
Prosincová
In the right part of the upper wall, via a corner crack and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Pilát
From the north, traverse into the center of the upper wall and from there up the chimney… Rock Climbing
3
Pilát
From J by chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Pilát
Entry in the right part of the J wall and along it over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bible
Through the north wall right into the second hole, through it traverse to the valley edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bible
Up the SE edge, left to K and by wall n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Pilát
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Bible
Through the north wall near the NE edge over the overhang, right onto the small shelf and… Rock Climbing
7
Tři králové
Through the center of the valley wall over 3 K n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Bible
By the upper wall over the shelves n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Tři králové
By the left valley edge onto the shelf and by the W wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Jidáš
From the J shelf through the wall over the hourglass and K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Jidáš
In the right part of the S wall by edge to the 1st K and over the 2nd K n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Jidáš
From J by leap n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Jidáš
From J by chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing

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