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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Jidáš
From J by leap n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Jidáš
From J by chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Mechová Růženka
By the right valley edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Permoník
By a chimney from the East into a small cave (Hodiny) and by a small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Permoník
By the valley (S) wall to a balcony and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Mechová Růženka
By the plateau wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mechová Růženka
Through the window in the upper wall, traverse to the valley wall and from the right n. v… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Permoník
By an overhanging small wall left of the "Normal Route" via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Rychlovka
By a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Rychlovka
By a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rychlovka
By the wall right of the NE edge to a ledge and by the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Rychlovka
From the gap between the towers by the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Permoník
Through the right part of the plateau wall into a small pillar, via it to a balcony. By a… Rock Climbing
5
Šlechtická stěna
From the gully in front of the South wall, by stemming between the wall and a nearby… Rock Climbing
2
Skalička Alička
From the plateau left into the south wall and over a ledge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Šlechtická stěna
From the boulder by a small pillar to a ledge, left by a crack to K and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Šlechtická stěna
By a chimney and then by a crack in the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Šlechtická stěna
By a chimney in the left part of the north wall to the summit.
2
Skalička Alička
By the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Skalička Alička
Through the middle of the north wall through a hole to the summit.
6
Baronka
Along the left valley edge over 3 K and the rappelling K further up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Baronka
Along the crack in the S wall over 2 K further up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Baronka
From the plateau edge, traverse right further up. Rock Climbing
5
Baronka
In the right part of the S wall, by stemming to the ledge, then up the wall over K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Baronka
Through the right part of the valley wall to the 1st K, up to the 2nd K and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Baronka
Along the plateau edge further up. Rock Climbing
1
Baronka
From S (South), by a jump/leap further up. Rock Climbing
3
Baronka
In the right part of the S wall, through the depression further up. Rock Climbing
7
Markýz
Along the valley wall over 2 K further up. Rock Climbing
2
Baronka
From the plateau edge, traverse left further up. Rock Climbing

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